plotting how we would get the three dysfunctional bikes across the busy highway and up the dusty dirt track on the other side without attracting attention , the retail park security guard approached . He didn ’ t think stealth camping in the hills was a good idea . Aside from the fact that there weren ’ t really any bushes or trees to hide behind , he was convinced we would likely be arrested . Wild camping wasn ’ t exactly illegal in this part of Turkey , but the local police were a bit starved for excitement , as he put it . Instead , he kindly offered we should pitch the tent under the retail park ’ s brightly lit billboard . Here we would have light to work on the bikes and he would let his colleagues know at shift change to keep an eye out to make sure we and the bikes would be safe for the night .
We pitched the tent on the dry grass between the traffic roaring down the road and the empty McDonald ’ s car park in the harsh neon light of the billboard . Ali went
inside to buy dinner of chicken nuggets and chips while Aidan dug out the whiskey and I started my bike off the DRZ one last time , leaving it running till full charge .
There is nothing like a cheap dinner , washed down with whiskey from a bottle , to get the conversation flowing . We finally had a chance to get to know Ali a little better . He is an easy going , relatable kind of guy with liberal views of traditions and politics . In Muslim tradition drinking alcohol is forbidden , but he joined us sipping whiskey and provided a little insight into Turkish life .
We had seen a lot of Turkish flags in peoples ’ windows and gardens and had begun to suspect a very patriotic folk . Asking Ali about it , he revealed that was not the case . The flags represented support for Mustafa Kemal Ataturk who is seen as the founder of modern Turkey - the very name Ataturk means “ father of Turks ”. Ataturk had worked towards a unified Turkey and implemented a policy of westernization , ending the seclusion of women , allowing women to vote , and updating the legal and educational system , among other things . During Ataturk ’ s time as president from 1923 to 1937 the law dictating the exact layout of the Turkish flag was decreed . In Ali ’ s words , Ataturk created the flag as it is today and flying it was an expression of favouring a liberal , progressive approach to politics such as Ataturk ’ s , while being opposed to the more conservative party in power at the time . So , flying the flag was a rebellion in the guise of patriotism .
Like many young Turks we had met , Ali was not too worried about complying with the stricter rules of his traditions . But he did feel a little awkward sharing our tent , as you just don ’ t sleep in the same place as someone else ’ s wife . Ali had nothing with him aside from his small backpack and the clothes on his back . Our tent was a big three-
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