TRAVERSE Issue 17 - April 2020 | Page 63

haps the most beautiful and well- known area in Italy. Small jewels such as the church of San Giusto in Porcari or the historic centre of Altopascio and then we entered the Florentine countryside among vineyards and olive trees, in a territory that sees a gentle decline in the intensity of colours, instead in- credible variants of the same colours. Riding along the SP15 we soon come across Ponte Cappiano and then Fucecchio, a beautiful village that looks toward the Arno and is a must stop for pilgrims who passed here. Like those before us we see the tower of Frederick II that greets all from the hill at the entrance to San Miniato. There’s a beauty in that San Miniato has kept its medieval roots. We follow the SP4 on an enchanted ride to a village that is without doubt one of the worlds most beautiful. There’s no hyperbole in decsribing San Gimignano as a truly magical place without equal anywhere in Europe. It has an urban plan that was layed out in the 12th and 13th centu- ries and remains mostly intact, it is protected as a Unesco World Heritage Site. Continuing the descent towards Siena, crossing the little Strove with its Romanesque church and then to TRAVERSE 63 Abbadia in Isola with its entralling village. And what about Monterig- gioni who rises, unique and splendid, not far on a hill with its mighty walls built by the Sienas in 1200. Siena, more than 20 kilometres behind on the provincial 101 it’s hard not to think about the inscription on the entry into Siena of Ferdinand l de’ Medici on the Porta Camolia; “Cor magis tibi Sena pandit” – Siena opens a bigger heart (of the door you are going through). Siena opens your heart and not only that, she steals your soul. From Piazza del Campo the pil- grims take up the Via Francigena to