extraordinary site is the collection of
impressive Buddhist monasteries that
can be visited on a day’s ride using
Padum as a base, except the remotest
Puentsoling Monastery, which re-
quires a ride to the base of an escarp-
ment and then a trek on a narrow
ledge over vertiginous drops. The
trek can be done both ways in one
day however, there is accommoda-
tion at the monastery (spartan) if you
are interested in witnessing monastic
life at altitude and a chance to photo-
graph the very different high-altitude
landscape.
Karsha monastery (an easy ride
from Padum) where the Lamas (head
monks and teachers) and novices
received us with open arms. One of
the teachers said he wanted to teach
himself English to be able to offer a
more accurate version of the stories
that guides tell their groups.
It was in response to this wish that
on coming back to Leh, Ladakh after
a few hard days on the road, we pur-
chased a Tibetan/English dictionary
for this teacher. Of course, the next
step was to figure out how to get it to
him.
We were passing a row of taxis
(which are always 4x4 vehicles)
where one of them was loading up
supplies onto the roof rack. On an
impulse we enquired about its des-
tination. The driver said: Padum.
When we explained we wanted to
send the dictionary to this teacher in
Karsha he not only knew the Monas-
tery but knew the teacher as well as
he was from that area originally.
The driver was delighted to be
able to deliver the dictionary to the
vey hands of the teacher.
Perched high on a rock by the
river is Bardan Monastery. We were
treated to witness ceremonies and
admire the centuries old architec-
ture. A kind young monk, in a very
fetching Zanskari hat and aviator
glasses, volunteered to give a history
tour of the place.
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