set off after 5pm, less than an hour
before sunset.
When we resumed our ride the
following morning, at the best pos-
sible time, we encountered a wide
and wild running water crossing with
huge boulders underneath. We made
it through, but it was scary …
At the next checkpoint we were
told that one of the Nihang riders had
come off in the middle of the stream,
in the dark, and had to be rescued.
The bike picked up by a bulldozer.
No major injuries but I imagine some
bad bruising and gashing. I won-
dered in what way the huge sword
hanging from his side would have
impacted him on the fall.
On the way to Padum, the land-
scape become stark.
High mountains flank the valley.
The narrow dirt road seems to disap-
pear at times. The wind can pick up
at anytime and there is nowhere to
have a hot drink.
Hungry and cold on top of Pensi
La; a high pass with an extraordinary
glacier said to run with diamonds and
sapphires, we remembered that once
before, in the similar situation, we
stopped by a temporary camp of what
turned out to be yak herders. We
wondered if this year they might be
here again.
Their stone enclosures, topped
with tarpaulins, house them for the
summers when they take care of
herds of yaks, taking them to find the
scarce pastures, milking them and
making cheese.
As it happened, they were here and
these very hospitable people again
offered us a hot cup of tea, tsampa
(typical Tibetan fare made of roasted
barley flour), freshly made yoghurt
and stone baked bread. A real feast
that restored our bodies and spirits.
We wanted to leave some money, but
they asked us to bring them some
Crocs (plastic clog-like footwear they
favour) instead from Padum on our
way back. We promised we would.
TRAVERSE 113
In Padum, we spent a few hours
locating the required footwear and
bought six pairs for the women.
Lashing the huge, bulky (but light)
bag to the bike was another story.
Padum has two intersecting main
streets bustling with people from far
away villages coming for supplies and
a taste of the ‘big apple’.
Monks in transit to their monaster-
ies mill about while foreign travellers
congregate in restaurants exchanging
travel tales.
Hotels, guesthouses and homestays
offer good accommodation. Here any
welding that might be necessary is
available and a few motorcycle spares
can be found after much searching
but don't count on it.
On a ride like this it is essential
to carry tools and spares. Tubes,
fuses, bulbs and whatever else you
can think of. Extra fuel as well from
Kargil. At times, the only pump in
Padum runs out of petrol …
But what really makes this place an