TRAVERSE Issue 14 - October 2019 | Page 107

pedition from Melbourne to the Gulf of Carpentaria and return, for little more than fame and fortune, came to a deadly end. Both died on the banks of the Cooper Creek, while refusing help from the local aboriginals. Com- pounding the ludicrous tragedy that was the expedition, the depot party abandoned their camp just hours before Burke, Wills and John King returned. A simple message carved into a tree could perhaps have saved their lives. This is now known as the Dig Tree. The Yandruwandha helped King, he’d been compelled to learn from the indigenous peoples along the whole expedition, ensuring he was able to return to Melbourne and tell of the tale. Sadly, he seems to be the forgotten ‘leader’ of the whole expe- dition. It’s said the Yandruwandha cried at the death of Burke, despite his severe lack of compassion to- wards them. The banks of the Cooper are an oasis amongst some of the harshest land on Earth, yet the banks hold a strange aura, there’s a sadness in the land, a feeling the past is watching. North. We followed the 141st me- ridian on the western side, in South Australia on the Cordillo Downs road. It seemed to be a track less travelled; TRAVERSE 107 well made yet rough, sandy and stone littered for most. Once out of the Innamincka Regional Reserve the road improved, albeit it little. En- tering the station the road is named for, we approached what is said to be the ‘world’s largest shearing shed’. Unique in its stone construction, it sat massively unimpressive. Was I expecting more? I wanted it to be more. The expanse of barren land dwarfed the structure. We moved on; Birdsville beckoned. Originally established as Diaman- tina Crossing in 1881, Birdsville’s origins have a dubious history. Bird- field, Burtsville, no one can explain