TRAVERSE Issue 14 - October 2019 | Page 106

accessed and like a spider’s web, this place draws you in and captures you with a strange charm. Jim, a ‘dogger’ that patrols this stretch of the fence, plonked him- self down, beer in hand and started asking questions. Was Jim his real name? It mattered little, his stories, well stretched, were interesting, add- ing to the myth of the ‘dog fence’. I could see others listening, the divide was widening. “Of all the dogs you kill, how many are real dingos?” I asked, not sure I wanted to hear the answer. “Mate,” Jim stared at me. “Mate, 98% of all dingos I shoot are 100% pure.” I sat in disbelieve as Jim explained that all dingos killed must be DNA tested, to track something scientific or other. He continued with a grin, that the dogs that managed to get through the fence into New South Wales were in fact protected by the Sturt National Park. I tried to com- prehend what I was hearing. The dogs risked their lives to get through a fence designed to keep them out, if they made it they were actually protected in a state that didn’t want them. My mind wandered, this seemed all too similar to the ‘leader’ of the ‘free world’ building a wall on TRAVERSE 106 his southern border … keeping Mexi- cans out or Americans in? Our northward passage took us to Poeppel’s camp, now the township of Innamincka. Europeans had reached the area as early as the 1840’s as a number of explorers tried in vain to open the interior of the vast land. The Yandruwandha aboriginal people had been here for who knows how many millennia. Twenty-two years before Innaminc- ka was proclaimed a settlement through the establishment of a police outpost in 1882, Robert O’Hara Burke and William John Wills had laid their names to the area. Their ill-fated ex-