TRAVERSE Issue 14 - October 2019 | Page 51

LOVE SHACK J ust off the beaten path on Hwy 28 in eastern New York’s Catskills, and less than ten miles from the famous con- cert site of Woodstock, there is a ‘little old place where you can get together.’ But don’t blink. You’ll miss the faded sign by the side of the road that reads Kate’s Lazy Meadow. Welcome to the Love Shack in the Catskills. This is the first stop on my jour- ney to rediscover America’s roadside motels. There has always been a cheesy romanticism with motels and motorcycles. The mere mention of the two conjures up images of James Dean and bright neon lights. But motels have always been more asso- ciated with car travel. So last year I married the two and coined a new word-motelorcycle, with me being the motelorcyclist. Over the past three decades, motels in America have declined in numbers. Once a staple along TRAVERSE 51 America’s roadsides, these icons of the highway are disappearing like an endangered species. In 1964, there were 61,000 independently operated motels in America, today there is just a fraction of that number still open. So my goal was to set out on my motorcycle checking in on fifty of America’s remaining roadside motels. For fifty days and 16,334 kilometres (10,150 miles) I travelled around America meeting motel guests, other motorcyclists on the road and the moteliers that are keeping this tradi- tional accommodation option alive. So all packed, I headed out but first I had one major obstacle I needed to overcome. I had to cross the border into the United States. Pulling up to the border crossing I immediately realised that my year- long preparation for this journey could be thwarted before it began. Now Canadians don’t require visitors' visas or carnets to enter the US, but the border agents have complete