TRAVERSE Issue 05 - April 2018 | Page 53

ple, the heart-warming feeling by the mothers that hugged and kissed me as if I was their own, is something that truly touched me. This is what we love about humani- ty – that whatever happens, whatever the news reports and no matter what we read online; no border, no govern- ment and no religion can take away from us what truly connects us – our living souls. Riding and camping in the Maran- jab desert in Iran was an incredible experience. Iran is truly a gem when it comes to nature and we think it is a must-do for over landers and people who love off-road. We will never forget a funny ex- perience we had in Iran. We took a lot of photos with random people as well as friends in our one month stay and for us, it is natural to smile and put our thumbs up when posing for a shot. We had noticed people grinning sometimes but never really knew the reason. Finally, after three weeks, a friend told us that this has an offensive meaning in Iran … it is like sticking the middle finger out in the western world. Suddenly, it was all clear. We laughed a lot. Crossing from Iran to Pakistan was a tedious week. By coincidence, we TRAVERSE 53 had met other European bikers at the border and it was fun in the be- ginning, but being a large group con- stantly escorted by levies and police, stopping at dozens of checkpoints to fill the same details and being forced to sleep at expensive hotels was sim- ply nerve wracking. To make this worse, just as we reached Quetta, we were involved in an accident where a car crashed into us and we were very lucky not to get hurt. Whilst we were still in the Baloch- istan, around 3 days after we had started crossing, we tried to escape. We managed to get away with sixteen stops but were eventually stopped by an SUV full of very angry, armed policemen. Towards the end of the week, before reaching Lahore, we tried to escape again, and we man- aged. Despite this, through what we were later observing whilst exploring Paki- stan, we felt sorry for how this nation is looked at and how the authorities are so scared that something bad happens to a foreigner which would make things worse and continue to put a bad light on this beautiful coun- try and its people. The north of Pakistan is unique and even though it was already very