TRAVELLIVE MAGAZINE Travellive 10-2016

VIETNAMESE BANH MI, ANYONE? BÉNH Mç VIåT NAM Theo ch©n ng≠Íi Ph∏p Æ’n Sµi Gﬂn kho∂ng gi˜a th’ k˚ 19, b∏nh m◊ ban Æ«u lµ nh˜ng Ê baguette dÔng Æ” ®n khai vﬁ vÌi mÈt ›t b¨ vµ pate. Theo thÍi gian, nh˜ng Ê b∏nh baguette Æ«u ti™n d≠Ìi bµn tay ng≠Íi Vi÷t vıa c„ vﬁ bäo cÒa b¨, pa te, th™m chÛt ÆÂ chua, d≠a leo, Ìt, ngﬂ, lπi kãp th™m thﬁt, tr¯ng, x◊ d«u vµ n≠Ìc xËt... D«n dµ, n„ Æ∑ thµnh chi’c b∏nh m◊ Vi÷t Nam Æ∆c tr≠ng, thu hÛt nhi“u th˘c kh∏ch tr™n toµn th’ giÌi. Lµm sao Æ” nhÀn bi’t mÈt Ê b∏nh m◊ ngon khi bπn kh´ng th” n’m vµ kh´ng th” ngˆi? C´ nµng Æ«u b’p Colette Tatou trong phim “ChÛ ChuÈt ß«u B’p” Ratatouille bÀt m›: “H∑y læng nghe ©m thanh cÒa b∏nh m◊, chÿ c„ nh˜ng Ê b∏nh m◊ ngon mÌi cho ra nh˜ng ti’ng giﬂn rÙm nh≠ mÈt b∂n nhπc”. LÌp ngoµi vµng rÈm bao phÒ l†y ph«n ruÈt b∏nh m◊ Æ∆c xËp, n„ng h´i hÊi. ô mÁi n¨i ®n b∏nh m◊ mÁi kh∏c. B∏nh m◊ Sµi Gﬂn nÊi ti’ng Æa dπng, nhi“u thﬁt nhi“u rau, lÛc nµo cÚng ph∂i c„ d≠a leo, cÒ c∂i, cµ rËt. B∏nh m◊ ßµ Lπt h†p d…n vÌi chän x›u mπi vµ n≠Ìc h«m x≠¨ng. B∏nh m◊ thﬁt n≠Ìng ßµ NΩng ngon mi÷ng vÌi rau mÔi, rau hÛng. Trong khi Æ„, b∏nh m◊ Hµ NÈi lÛc nµo cÚng Æ«y ch∂... H◊nh ∂nh nh˜ng c´ cÀu h‰c trﬂ vıa Æ‰c s∏ch vıa “g∆m” b∏nh m◊, hay c∏c thanh ni™n Æ´ thﬁ vıa g‚ laptop, vıa ®n b∏nh m◊, uËng cµ ph™ v´ cÔng quen thuÈc tr™n c∏c con phË. B∏nh m◊ Vi÷t mang Æ«y ÆÒ Æ∆c Æi”m cÒa mÈt m„n ®n nhanh cho nh˜ng ng≠Íi bÀn rÈn. Kh´ng ph∂i ng…u nhi™n khi r†t nhi“u c∏c t›n ÆÂ »m th˘c, Æ«u b’p th’ giÌi Æ“u m™ m»n m„n b∏nh m◊ Vi÷t Nam. Kh∏c vÌi c∏c ki”u burger, sandwich to Ù, Æ«y thﬁt nguÈi, thﬁt n≠Ìng vµ pho m∏t bäo ngÀy vµ chÿ Æi”m mÈt hai l∏t cµ chua, trong Ê b∏nh m◊ Vi÷t nh†t Æﬁnh ph∂i c„ rau vµ th∂o mÈc (nh≠ ngﬂ, rau th¨m) Æ” tπo ra h≠¨ng vﬁ c©n bªng r†t tinh t’, nhã nhµng Æ∆c tr≠ng cÒa m„n É. C„ nhi“u rau th¨m nh≠ vÀy, ®n b∏nh m◊ th≠Íng xuy™n nh≠ th’ nµo Æi n˜a, th◊ bπn cÚng kh´ng bﬁ bäo ph◊, hay d≠ cholesterol. H∑y læng nghe ©m thanh cÒa b∏nh m◊, chÿ c„ nh˜ng Ê b∏nh m◊ ngon mÌi cho ra nh˜ng ti’ng gin rÙm nh≠ mÈt b∂n nhπc... Brought to Saigon by the French during the mid-19th century, banh mi first appeared as baguettes with pate and butter to eat as appetizers. As time went by, Vietnamese people turned these crunchy French baguettes into a beloved concoction combining pate with pork, eggs, soy sauce, and an ever-changing array of herbs and vegetables. Nowadays, banh mi attracts many chefs and foodies from around the world for its cultural and culinary blend. “How can you distinguish a good loaf of bread without even tasting it? Not from the smell, nor the look, but the sound of the crust.” - Chef Colette Tatou said to the garbage boy Alfredo Linguini in the film Ratatouille (the most popular animated comedy film in 2007). Yes, only great bread can compose a symphony of “crunch”. In Vietnam, banh mi introduces its own distinct culture from each of its various regions. While the banh mi of Hanoi is popular for the quality of its cha (a very smooth paste made from high-quality lean pork), Saigonese banh mi can drive you crazy for its southern style: bigger baguettes crammed with more veggies, and herbs like cilantro, carrots, cucumber, and red peppers. While banh mi from Danang is tempting for its grilled pork, Vietnamese mint, and papaya pickle. Tourists coming to Dalat quickly become all too familiar with this crispy banh mi and the meat ball soup that accompanies it. Mind-blowing fillings, healthy ingredients, and beautiful baguettes - no wonder foodies from around the world love this Vietnamese “grab & go” food. Asian people are very concerned about balancing flavors, which is why it’s hard to find something full of greasy meat, smoked ham, and fatty cheese. A banh mi will always have that certain mouth-watering taste and aroma from the pate, butter and meaty fillings, along with those spicy and earthy notes from the herbs and veggies, topped off with a savory finish of soy sauce or homemade sauce. All these different flavors combine to achieve a delicious harmony. So shall you order a banh mi for breakfast on a busy day, why not? TRAVELLIVE 101

TRAVELLIVE MAGAZINE Travellive 10-2016 | Page 101