TASTENOTES
On My Plate: A classic
Sindhi Meal is what you
see in this picture. Sindhis,
who faced the most heartwrenching phase during the
1947 partition, have their
roots in one of the oldest
civilisations, Mohenjo-daro.
Back then, the community
was blessed with the
surroundings of fertile plains,
mighty Indus river, abundant
millet crops, plenty of sea
food (Hilsa/Ilish in particular)
and seasonal vegetables.
Lotus stem was one of the most favoured ingredients.
Name: Alka
Deepak
Keswani
Bio: Alka Keswani is a food blogger
and Sindhi food consultant,
managing her award-winning
blog since 2008. Dedicated to her
mother, the blog is about Sindhi
food habits, rituals, lost customs and
traditions, memories and of course,
the recipes. A microbiology graduate
whose life revolves around her family
and food, she contributes articles to
leading magazines and newspapers.
Her recipes have also appeared in
the popular book, We the Sindhis.
Alka Keswani lives in Mumbai.
Blog: www.sindhirasoi.com
Cuisine: Sindhi
Signature Dishes: Saibhaji,
Sindhi kadhi, Dal pakwan, Koki,
Singhar mithai etc.
Sindhi cuisine is inspired
by fertile plains, the
mighty Indus, abundan t
millet, plenty of sea food
and seasonal vegetables
On My Plate: Sai Bhaji
(Green subzi ) is a signature
Sindhi dish full of nutrients:
Leafy greens such as
spinach, fenugreek leaves,
khatta and sua (dill), and
fresh green coriander leaves,
vitamin-rich vegetables
including brinjal, okra,
colocasia, potato, onion;
and proteins in the form
of Bengal Gram (Chana
dal) and split green moong
dal, along with tomatoes,
chillies and dry spices such
as turmeric and coriander
powder. The chopped vegetables are sautéed and rest of the ingredients
are added and cooked till mushy with an optional tempering of garlic.
This Sai Bhaji is served with Bhugha Chaanwaran or rice cooked with
caramelised onions and spiced up with red chilli powder and garam
masala powder. At times vegetables like peas, potatoes and Apple gourds
are added for the bite.
Sai Bhaji and Bhugha Chaanwaran are often accompanied by shallowfried aubergine or with sinful Arbi Tuk (boiled, peeled colocasia, deep
fried till golden brown), crisp from outside and soft from inside. Two
indispensable accompaniments of a typical Sindhi meal are pickle and
papad.
Note: In the above picture, you see an exotic Sindhi pickle, rarely made nowadays
(and seldom found in shops). This pickle is known as Kadhukash (means grated)/ Khatti
Bheendi/ Ghathri (Bundle) or Potli Pickle. It is made by mixing grated raw mangoes, fennel,
black peppercorns, fenugreek seeds, asafetida, onion seeds, red chilli powder, turmeric,
mustard oil and cloves of garlic. The ingredients are mixed and small portions of it are tied
up in individual ‘potli,’ a kind of French bouquet garni made by using a piece of cheesecloth
or muslin cloth. Each potli is then either tied with a string to seal its ‘mouth’ or is simply
knotted. These are then preserved in an oil-water-vinegar solution for around 10-15 days
(depending upon the season/temperature).
September-October 2015 Travel Secrets 83