The Paddler Magazine Issue 76 Early Spring 2024 | Page 37

A LIVING COAST
The next section is a true example of the Living Coast and why the Jurassic Coast is so special . Here coastal erosion and landslips reveal the natural history within its sediments . It ’ s a section of constant change , and the towering cliffs are an unstable force of nature that should not be underestimated . This is where the Victorians flocked to fossil hunting , and the pioneering palaeontologist Mary Anning made her first discoveries about dinosaurs , which would change our knowledge of the ancient natural world .
LYME BAY NATURAL HISTORY PARADISE
Paddling along this section takes you from Seaton towards the capital of fossil hunting , Lyme Regis . Here , there is a fabulous fossil museum https :// www . lymeregismuseum . co . uk and plenty of eateries to enjoy the town ’ s artisan character and proud heritage as the once home town to Mary Anning . Time your trip with a stop at the Lyme Regis Fossil Festival , and you can learn all about the wonderful world of palaeontology through the interactive displays , events and pop-up museums along the whole shoreline of Lyme Regis . Or enjoy a calmer visit , landing on the shores to admire the many large ammonites in the rocks under your feet .
As we head past Lyme to the Eastern section of Lyme Bay , the character of the cliffs turns golden as you paddle to the cute village of Charmouth . It has the most fabulous visitor centre , https :// charmouth . org / chcc / lyme-bay /#, and the opportunity to hire a fossil collecting kit and enjoy some respite from the formidable cliffs . This has to be one of the main places to find a fossil yourself in a safer location from rock falls . However , continuing east , the cliff builds to the highest point at Golden Cap and continues to West Bay , where there is a gap in the cliff for the small harbour and town .
Although the places along this section have villages or towns on the shores , they aren ’ t always accessible places to land and are a committing distance apart . The water builds in character and can create thunderous shore dumps and strong tow-back or wind-driven surf sections . It can be quite a spectacle to observe , and careful planning is needed to watch the wind and tide to make the exits or launching sites safe .
CHESIL BEACH LONG SHORE DRIFT
The following section continues as a vast wilderness of longshore drift called Chesil Beach , which is 18km long until you reach Portland at its eastern end . Here , the tow back and beach dumps can be monstrous , and it is well worth catching the spectacle on a stormy day from the safety of the shore . Again , you must plan ahead before committing to this adventure ; otherwise , there is no exiting safely . Behind Chesil Beach is a fine lagoon called the Fleet , which connects to Abbotsbury to Portland Harbour and can offer an alternative protected section of water to paddle in windier conditions .
Tidal flow however at Ferrybridge can create eddies or hydrology similar to a short grade 1 and the shallows in the higher reaches can become quite a challenge especially in the upper reaches . The whole section of water is a marine protected area and you can learn more about the amazing wildlife of the Fleet at the family visitor centre on its shores . www . dorsetwildlifetrust . org . uk / wildchesilcentre
ADVANCED WATERS OF PORTLAND AND THE PLAYFUL WEYMOUTH BAY
A circumnavigation of Portland should be on any experienced paddler ’ s bucket list , but this is advanced water paddling . It is an epic paddle with stunning geology , water hydrology , caves and marine wildlife . Here , we have the famous Portland Bill lighthouse marking the treacherous tidal races that form off the point of the Bill . There are extreme tidal flows all the way around , with various races and eddies that form at varying times before and after high water . The trip requires advanced tidal planning and navigation and sound paddling skills . It must only be attempted with this ; if in doubt , there are some exceptional local paddling guides to help .
Once you hit Weymouth Bay , the paddling becomes much more protected and much easier than the previous sections until you reach Bowleaze , where the cliffs start to build , but there are still easy landings to Osmington and Ringstead Bay . Local to this is Dorchester , a short drive up the road with its newly extended Museum for Natural History , which is very interactive and has some fine examples of pliosaurs and ichthyosaurs you can get up close to https :// www . dorsetmuseum . org
LULWORTH ESTATE
After Ringstead , the beautiful white rocks become sheer-sided cliffs that drop straight into the water . Here are some of the finest examples of striations , rock formations along the Jurassic Coast , and the famous jewels of Durdle Door and Lulworth Cove . A small visitor centre at Lulworth is also worth stopping at while enjoying the local refreshments .