ThePADDLER 44
BELONGING TO NATURE As we enter a small sheltered bay , the waters and my heart rate calm in equal measure . With the downpours continuing , we spot what appears to be a basic shelter on the other side of the cove . None of these islands have had a resident in decades , so after earlier resigning ourselves to a very wet and wild camp , a refuge to escape the rain and cook some decent food was a real treat . It transpired the island was entrusted to the Scottish National Party in 1978 , and the then chair , William ( aka Billy ) Wolfe took the onus to care for the island and build a visitor centre to host the occasional boat trip . Although there were still remnants of a human history with a 14th century chapel , it was clear the island belonged to nature now . We had our very own island and were treated to a wildlife show even David Attenborough would have been impressed by , with countless seals , sea birds and a family of otters .
The next morning the air felt settled but fresh despite the thick clouds still lingering on the hills in the distance . The committing 10k crossing to Jura provided periods of calm seas intermittently followed by clean but powerful waves and the occasional pod of dolphins . Eventually we reach the forested shores of Jura and landing on a remote beach , I turn to take in the panorama and am taken aback to see no less than 25 seals staring back at us . If their curious Labrador-like faces weren ’ t so endearing , it might have been eerie but we stretch our legs and have some lunch during yet another wonderful standoff with the wildlife . Paddling north , we ride the tidal streams which resemble whitewater rivers more than sea kayaking and in turn make quick work to the top of the island , clocking 22kph in places . Ed and I have been known to throw caution to the wind on plenty of occasions but the next crossing , the Gulf of Corryvreckan would not be one of those times . This narrow strait between Jura and Scarba boasts Europe ’ s largest whirlpool and infamous waters that are known to have claimed numerous lives including almost that of George Orwell which provided an experience which inspired aspects of his much acclaimed novel , 1984 which largely was written on Jura .
Although most reports online advise you to steer clear of paddling this area , we understand it is possible for skilled paddlers to cross the strait at slack tide . Hiking uneven and boggy terrain , we reach high
Ed and I have been known to throw caution to the wind on plenty of occasions but the next crossing , the
Gulf of Corryvreckan
would not be one of those times