KAYAKING SCOTLAND ’ S
WILD ISLES
By Aaron Rolph @ aaronrolph Featuring Ed Ghilks Photos : @ britishadventurecollective Supported by : Zegul Kayaks For most , the UK is hardly synonymous with wilderness . Leading the agricultural and industrial revolutions meant pretty relentless deforestation for fuel and land use change , all in the name of productivity . With such intensive industries historically , our population was able to thrive and grow far beyond what most would deem sustainable , thus putting our remaining wild spaces at risk .
Growing up in Cumbria afforded me the huge privilege of wide open spaces , and although heavily managed , I was fortunate enough to reach some wilderness . Now living in the south east however , I can ’ t help but feel that finding untouched landscapes or any kind of wilderness completely impossible . Like so many , I live life in two extremes ; spending most of my time in the Big Smoke to spend my weekends seeking out isolation and much-needed space to think . This time , we ’ d trade our running shoes for paddles and explore just some of Scotland ’ s 700 islands , of which the vast majority are completely uninhabited .
As isn ’ t uncommon on sea kayaking trips , our original plan to follow the well-documented Argyle Sea Trail was foiled by some rough seas and very strong southerlies but we were determined to make the most of our time in the Inner Hebrides . Fully laden with enough food to sink a ship ( hopefully an expression that would not become a reality ), we put in at the quaint village of Tallyvallich . The wind has really picked up , clearly much stronger than forecast , making even crossing the relatively sheltered Loch Sween hard graft as the wind beats us back . My friend and paddling partner Ed , a notoriously stoic man of few words offers nothing more than a nod as we battle against the whistling gales and splashing waves , both knowing this could mean trouble when we get out at sea . We do however find some shelter by remaining close to the shore and despite slow progress against a rising tide , we do eventually reach the mouth to undoubtedly rougher seas .
Aiming for the Isle of Jura , the sound involves a committing 12k crossing in waters that have little protection and boast infamous and complex tidal races and it was a full moon meaning we would be out during spring tides . We make our break for it and test the waters running alongside adjacent to a network of small islands called the MacCormaig Isles . It doesn ’ t take too long before its reputation proves justifiable , there seems to be tidal races running all over and our boats are being pushed and pulled in every direction . To make things worse the wild Atlantic swell is plummeting down on us , frequently losing sight of one and another through the vast waves . I can ’ t help but find joy in feeling so small , as we are tossed around by the raw power of the ocean . Somehow we keep our boats upright and progress roughly in the right direction , deciding to land on the largest island , Eileen Mòr .
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