Some places in France are made for lingering and the Ardèche in the Rhônes Alpes region, just north of Provence is certainly one of them. It feels untamed at times with its rugged, craggy gorges and deep forests, serene at others, with grand old mother Rhône gliding majestically through her vineyards and hills.
Start at Tournon sur Rhône
If you’re planning on cycling in this beautiful region, you could do a lot worse than by starting your stay in the small town of Tournon sur Rhône. Just north of Valence (and south of Lyon) it’s delightfully quirky. One moment you’ll be exploring a labyrinth of ancient, narrow, cobbled streets (and a new one way system that will send you insane) and the next you’ll be bowing in reverence on the banks of the River Rhône, as she slowly sweeps passed in all her grandeur.
There’s a large and rather beautiful 19th century, pedestrian suspension bridge which takes you to Tain l’Hermitage and the vine clad slopes and gourmand chocolate on the other side of the Rhône. I happened to follow two children across it from Tain to their school in Tournon’s large, shaded market square. The school is dripping in Mediterranean flowers and sits right on the banks of the Rhône and as the early September sunrise slowly unveiled the town, I had to wonder if the children appreciated what a stunningly beautiful spot their seat of learning is in.