With the castle right at Tournon’s heart (which dates back to the 10th and 14th century and is next to the square) the town is also overlooked by a steep hill and the old fortifications and church. Vines thread their way up the slopes like plaits on a head to give a curious effect. There’s occasional trompe d’oeil in the back streets and you can feel the mix of southern France and Alpine style. The bright orange and yellow turret of the Caisse d’Epargne in the old quarter even gives it an eastern feel.
Hôtel de la Villeon
Tucked away a short distance behind the very narrow main street, with its back against the hills is a hidden gem. A large old wooden door is the only clue to this grand old 18th century mansion that used to belong to one of the town’s long ago successful merchants. Now a 4-star hotel, it’s held on to all the integrity of its past. Limestone floors greet you as you enter the cool of the ground floor and the original grand staircase takes you into the hotel’s heart. It’s a listed building with many original features like the exquisite parquet flooring but still has a minimalist feel.
The terraced garden which leads off from the restaurant, has an array of terracotta pots and a magnificent wisteria, which you climb up through to access the top terrace.
On a Sunday night the hotel restaurant is closed so they bring your dinner from the nearby gourmand restaurant Comako. There’s a local trend in cuisine in the Ardèche so I’m told, which means my entire meal came condensed into 3 small glass pots (one for each course)! But, whether it’s hot coffee and some of the hotel’s fabulous breakfast or a potted picnic, the top terrace and its views, has to be a pretty fabulous way to start or end any day.