Ljubljana , the capital of Slovenia , is difficult to spell and a bit of a headscratcher to locate . It is somewhere in former Yugoslavia , squeezed in between four countries : Croatia , Hungary , Austria and Italy .
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It lies halfway between Vienna and Venice , at the crossroads of two different cultures , and is unexpectedly fascinating . The old and the new jostling along harmoniously , the locals are absolutely charming . Known for its relaxed atmosphere , it ’ s small and being so small it is easy to get to grips with .
As you stroll through streets full of outstanding architecture with a real mix of styles , you might be tempted to stop all the time for some street food , a cold Union beer an ice cream , and just mull away the time people watching and relaxing . It ’ s that sort of place . No rush .
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Downtown is overlooked by the castle and encircled by the Ljubljanica River . The centre fans out from three bridges , the Triple Bridge - which has |
stood in its place since 1842 when it replaced an old , strategically important medieval wooden bridge connecting the north-western European lands with south-eastern Europe and |
the Balkans . In the 1930s , the two side bridges , intended for pedestrians , were added to the original . These were designed by the architect Jože Plecnik , the man behind much of the city ’ s charm . His statue stands in the main square , Prešernov trg , next to the giant music box that will play any tune of your choice from a list of 100 , and overlooking a cobbled circle where everybody cools down under an over-head spray of water .
On the right bank of the river is the Central Market colonnade filled with stalls of everything from bangles to falafels to the freshest of fruit and vegetables . Slovenia is a rural country . They say it has more tractors per head than anywhere .
Keep walking and you get to the Dragon Bridge where the River Spirits , who might lure young ladies into the waters , hang out . A little further on , in Krekov Square , is the funicular to the Castle that ’ s been there since before the earthquake of 1511 . You can walk up the mountain but for 7euro I ’ d rather take the funicular to see the views .
There are endless things to do in Ljubljana . An 8 euro cruise
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along the river is a slow meander through the old town . Perhaps go for a wander across the Tivoli Park on Rožnik Hill . The city is full of museums and lovely , mainly Baroque , churches like the towering , pink Franciscan Church in the centre . The philharmonic orchestra goes back to 1701 and music is always playing somewhere .
This year ’ s European Green Capital , it has been inhabited since 2000BC by the Veneti , Illyrians , Celtic tribes , Romans , Francs , Hungarians , Czechs and Hapsburg .
In the 20th Century , Slovenia entered a union with Serbia and Croatia , later known as Yugoslavia . World War One passed the city by but in World War Two the city came under fascist occupation and was encircled by 30km of barbed wire fence . After this chequered political history , independence was declared in 1991 . Slovenia was the first country from the former Yugoslavia to become a member of the EU . ( Croatia followed .)
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Clean , green and appealingly serene , go before the others discover it ! |
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Getting there : easyJet and Wizz Air fly there direct . |
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10 THE LONDON & UK DATEBOOK |