it was not showing the reality of Spanish cuisine. You go to Alicante, you can have some of the most beautiful rice in the world. You go to Basque country, you can get some great seafood. Today, people discover that Spain is very interesting because we have top restaurants. We are a country that loves food, and that is fundamental to Spain’ s contributions to new experimental cuisine. Ferran Adrià [ Head Chef of El Bulli ] has revolutionized the world of gastronomy.
TJ: The Tempranillo grape is also known as the Noble Grape of Spain. Why do you think so?
TR: It is well known because it was the grape of Rioja; it was the grape of the Ribera del Duero. Tempranillo has different names in different areas. But I think Grenache is an amazing grape that nobody talks about, and its origin is Spanish. Some of the most amazing red wines from France are made from Grenache. Tempranillo is the most well-known grape, but I think you will see that in Spain, in the future, we will talk about Mencia, we will talk about Monastrell, we will talk about Graciano, a lot of different, interesting grapes. And the beautiful thing is that they are grapes from Spain. And they are not Cabernet, and not Merlot.
TJ: Tell me about why you are in love with bush vines.
TR: Ah, bush vines. Always, my life has been like a fight. In Spain, I was fighting Cabernet and Merlot, of course. Fighting for our grapes. It was stupid to see so many investments based on Cabernet and Merlot. It was completely insane; they were destroying vineyards.
I think by trellising all of Spain, we have destroyed the landscape. The bush vine is a very interesting way to manage your vineyard. I think that bush vines are very unique to Spain and that is our identity; we shouldn’ t destroy them. In the future, to have a vineyard in bush vines will be an argument of simplicity and character. This is very important. I think we have to respect our origins and character, and then, if you are able to produce a better wine with this, and the wine is different and original, this is much better. It is our inheritance.
TJ: How are bush vines unique?
TR: Three of the top wines from Spain are Pingus, Vega Sicilia, and L’ Ermita. Those three wines are bush vines. Peter was very clear about doing his Pingus with bush vines; and I thought,“ This is great! We have something.” You have to be very careful: when you have been doing something for more than one thousand years, don’ t change the density of your vineyards without thinking of your quality. In Spain, we should be much more sensitive to the vineyard, to the quality. One of the big mistakes, in Rueda, for example, was when an engineer from Navarra told the people,“ If you want to be modern, use trellis, use smaller densities.” I think that was a mistake. Every country has to maintain its character. If not, we live in a world where everything is a“ Spice Girl”— not very interesting. Maybe you can create a product and be very successful, but if you are in wine and food, it’ s very important to maintain a link to tradition.
The bush-vines are much more beautiful than the trellises. You know, at the beginning, I didn’ t have any money to buy my vineyard. Today, I am very proud that there are no trellised vineyards in my company.
TJ: Yes, you have a lot to be proud of Telmo. Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge and insight with me.
On that note of pride, the interview ends when Telmo’ s children come racing into the room. Telmo’ s face folds into a smile with the announcement,“ And now, welcome the monkeys!”
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