The Cellar Door Issue 05. The Chile Issue. | Page 26

THE WORD
I drink to the word , lifting a word or a glass of crystal , in it I drink the wine of language … giving crystal to crystal , blood to blood and giving life to life , the words .
— an excerpt from “ The Word ” in Plenos poderes by Chilean poet and politician Pablo Neruda ( translation by A . S . Kline )
Colourful Valparaiso , Chile remains an important historical port and cultural centre .
with French culture led to importation of French wines and noble vine stock , including Cabernet Sauvignon , Malbec , Carménère , Chardonnay , Semillon , and Riesling ( starting in the 1830s ).
• The timing is critical for understanding Chilean wine : these vines were imported from the leading French wine regions before the phylloxera plague . To this day , Chile remains phylloxera-free and represents the world ’ s greatest reservoir of own-root vines . One can imagine that Chilean wines still express flavours of the nineteenth century .
• In the late 1800s , political instability in Europe , vineyard devastation by the root louse phylloxera ( imported from North America ) and the allure of a booming economy led by mineral ( copper ) mining precipitated a wave of immigration to Chile . This marked the dawn of the first Golden Age of Chilean wines and the establishment of the enduring estates of Cousiño Macul , Concha y Toro , Undurraga , Errázuriz , La Rosa , Santa Rita , Carmen , and San Pedro .
TWENTIETH-CENTURY CHALLENGES
• The period between 1930 and 1980 wrought world conflict and economic depression , rampant domestic alcoholism fuelled by abundant cheap wine with no export market , and agrarian land reform aimed at redistribution of estate lands among the less wealthy . All of these factors led to a depression in the Chilean wine industry .
• In 1973 , a military junta led by General Augusto Pinochet seized power from President Salvador Allende . Military rule reigned until 1990 .
• A subsequent smooth transition to democracy opened foreign markets and encouraged an inflow of international investment and technical expertise .
• Nationally , vineyards doubled in size between 1995 and 2002 and exports grew from 43 to 355 million litres . We are currently in the Chilean wine industry ’ s second Golden Age .
CULTURAL ICONS
• Chile ’ s national dance is la cueca , a Spanish-African influenced social folk dance that facilitated flirting and “ partner finding .” During the time of Pinochet , it became a form of protest used by the mothers of the Disappeared .
• Rodeo is the national sport practiced in rural areas ( and , of course , real football is a passion !). A huaso is a skilled horseman identified by a chupalla ( straw hat ), a chamanta ( a short multi-colored blanket worn over the shoulders , also called a manta or a poncho ) over a short Andalusian waist jacket , tooled leather leggings over boots , and impressive carved spurs .
• Chileans call their country país de poetas — country of poets . Chile ’ s most famous poet , Pablo Neruda , won the 1971 Nobel Prize for Literature .
DID YOU KNOW ?
The Winnipeg is the name of the ship that arrived at Valparaíso , Chile , on September 3 , 1939 , with 2,200 Spanish immigrants fleeing Franco ’ s victory in the Spanish Civil War ( 1936 – 39 ). Poet Pablo Neruda became a national hero for his role in arranging for the immigrants ’ escape .
WINE TOURISM
• Currently , a visit to Chile ’ s wine regions — except Colchagua Valley — is a driving adventure . A few short years ago , you would be hard-pressed to find an adequate road map . However , change is afoot as hospitality infrastructure emerges and Chile becomes increasingly accessible . Many visitors hire cars and drivers in Santiago and leave the driving to someone else .
CHILEAN CUISINE
• Spanish and other European influences abound in Chile ’ s colourful and flavourful cuisine , which is essentially based on meat , especially lamb , fish and
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