The Cellar Door Issue 02. Timeless Tuscany. | Page 53

red wine fermentation , red wine skins get pushed to the surface and dry out to form a hard cap . Pigeage ( or punching down the cap ) needs to be done two to three times a day to promote saturation of the skins , which adds colour and tannin to the finished wine . I was given a large wooden device that looked like a flat plunger and told to get to work .
After about 20 minutes working on each of the three fermentors , I had worked up quite a sweat . After an incredible lunch prepared fresh by their amazing cook , Carmella , I was set free to tour the vineyards , take some pictures , and poke around the winery . The first day was pretty easy , and I started thinking to myself , “ I could do this for a living .”
BALANCING ACT It quickly became apparent that they had gone easy on me that first day . The rest of my time at Tolaini Estate was both fascinating and exhausting . Days begin at 7:30 am during vintage ( the collective term for all things that happen to make wine — picking , sorting , fermenting , monitoring , pressing , etc .), a little earlier if you want to catch some breakfast and a coffee . Morning is the time to get winemaking work done before the grapes start arriving .
We would start by tracking the sugar readings of each batch of juice . Fermentation is the process of converting sugar
Grapes start arriving from the fields at about two o ’ clock , and don ’ t stop until after six . I think this is one of Mr . Tolaini ’ s favourite parts , as I often saw him , shirt sleeves rolled up , checking on the quality of the fruit going into his winery . to alcohol , and it is important to track this progression . By tracking sugar each day , you can measure the sugar levels dropping , and determine the amount that still needs to be converted to alcohol . Once the fermentation is done , the juice can be siphoned off into oak barrels to age , and the tank can be cleaned and re-used if there are some later-ripening grapes yet to come in .
Every day , each wine is tasted by the talented winery team , and its needs are assessed , a decision that involves a fine balance of the wine , oxygen levels , technology , and skill of the winemaker . The wine then undergoes any number of a series of processes . Each day involved something different , but there were a couple of very interesting tasks . Many times I found myself doing what is called a “ pump-over .” It has somewhat the same effect of the pigeage , but more rigorous .
Imagine perching at the top of a gleaming stainless steel tank 50 feet above ground . When I opened these “ closedtop ” fermentors , I had to be careful not to stick my head in too far . Inhale a good whiff of carbon dioxide and it will lay you flat on your back . Attaching a pump to the bottom of the tank , I had to snake the hose all the way up to the top , and let the juice fly . Like in pigage , the purpose is to make sure the “ cap ” stays wet , and to extract as much colour and flavour from it as possible . It is also important to help distribute the yeasts that collect
Grapes are hand-picked with the help of the patented Tolaini tractors . www . banvilleandjones . com 53