tuscany from the trenches :
Grape cover at Tolaini Estates , Tuscany
THE WORK OF FINE WINE
By Mike Muirhead , Sommelier ( ISG , CMS ), CSW
I grew up on the Prairies . Despite the fact that they are nestled in the Wheat Basket of Canada , I have to confess that the only thing that I ever picked , growing up , were strawberries at the Mayfair Farm . When the opportunity to travel to Tuscany and work at the Tolaini vineyard and winery arose , I could not resist — but I also had no idea what to expect . The air of ease I felt when I arrived was deceptive and did not prepare me for the sheer volume of time , work , and dedication it takes to make great wine .
I arrived by train into Siena around 11pm in early October , at the very beginning of the harvest season . After a long day of air travel , I somehow managed to make both of my train connections and arrive on time , without speaking even a lick of Italian . I fell into bed that night , exhausted from a long day of travel , but eagerly anticipating the next day ’ s activities .
I woke up early , and after a quick espresso , it was down to the cantina ( winery ) to have a look around with my host . It struck me almost immediately that the winery is an amazing mixture of technology and tradition . Though it fits right in with the surrounding picturesque buildings and farmhouses , I discovered this was just a façade for the amazing modern technology that hid behind the doors : huge stainless steel , temperature controlled fermenting tanks ; beautiful open-top French oak fermenting vessels ; a state-of-the-art bottling line ; and an amazing barrica ( cellar ) with three large tunnels where all the wine is kept for aging in optimal conditions .
I met Marco and Nigel , two of the winery managers who look after day-to-day operations . After a quick chat with them , I got my first piece of action . Some of the Cabernet Franc in the open-top fermenters needed what ’ s called pigeage and I was more than willing to help . During
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