tuscany from the trenches:
Grape cover at Tolaini Estates, Tuscany
THE WORK OF FINE WINE
By Mike Muirhead, Sommelier( ISG, CMS), CSW
I grew up on the Prairies. Despite the fact that they are nestled in the Wheat Basket of Canada, I have to confess that the only thing that I ever picked, growing up, were strawberries at the Mayfair Farm. When the opportunity to travel to Tuscany and work at the Tolaini vineyard and winery arose, I could not resist— but I also had no idea what to expect. The air of ease I felt when I arrived was deceptive and did not prepare me for the sheer volume of time, work, and dedication it takes to make great wine.
I arrived by train into Siena around 11pm in early October, at the very beginning of the harvest season. After a long day of air travel, I somehow managed to make both of my train connections and arrive on time, without speaking even a lick of Italian. I fell into bed that night, exhausted from a long day of travel, but eagerly anticipating the next day’ s activities.
I woke up early, and after a quick espresso, it was down to the cantina( winery) to have a look around with my host. It struck me almost immediately that the winery is an amazing mixture of technology and tradition. Though it fits right in with the surrounding picturesque buildings and farmhouses, I discovered this was just a façade for the amazing modern technology that hid behind the doors: huge stainless steel, temperature controlled fermenting tanks; beautiful open-top French oak fermenting vessels; a state-of-the-art bottling line; and an amazing barrica( cellar) with three large tunnels where all the wine is kept for aging in optimal conditions.
I met Marco and Nigel, two of the winery managers who look after day-to-day operations. After a quick chat with them, I got my first piece of action. Some of the Cabernet Franc in the open-top fermenters needed what’ s called pigeage and I was more than willing to help. During
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