84 WATCHES & TIMEPIECES
THREE NEW MODELS CELEBRATING THE BEAUTY OF TROPICAL FLOWERS
Birds of Paradise – which symbolises freedom and joy in the language of flowers – captures the brilliant colouring and strongly geometric shape of the eponymous flower in a new twist on traditional Grand Feu champlevé enamelling . Once the first step is completed – hollowing the outline of the design from the flat gold surface of the case-back – tiny pieces of 24-carat gold leaf are cut to exact shape and size of certain sections of the flower then painstakingly fixed into place . This gold leaf underlay lends texture and exceptional brilliance to the orange and golden tones . Then the enameller begins the delicate process of applying the 19 different colours of enamel pigment , painting it to create nuances of tone and an impression of volume .
As many as nine layers of enamel are applied , requiring 60 hours of work . The rich colours of the flowers and leaves are complemented by the sparkle of snow-set diamonds that form the background . A challenging technique , snow-setting uses stones of nine different sizes and the setter must , in effect , work “ freehand ”, choosing and placing the stones so that not even a millimetre of the metal surface remains – the objective being to create a seamless expanse of sparkle . The Birds of Paradise timepiece is set with approximately 331 diamonds for a total of 1.64 carats – 65 hours of gem-setting work – and is fastened to the wrist with a strap in shiny green alligator leather , custom-dyed to perfectly match the green leaves . Reverso One ‘ Precious Flowers ’ Birds of Paradise represents a total of 125 hours of Métiers RaresTM work .
Hibiscus Enamel showcases the quintessential tropical flower – which symbolises beauty and wisdom – reinterpreting it in colours reminiscent of a sun-kissed lagoon . For the first time on a Métiers Rares™ Reverso One , the entire background is Grand Feu enamel , wrapping around the convex case-sides to frame the dial . The delicately drawn flowers and foliage are Grand Feu champlevé enamel – their nuanced details requiring 12 colours of enamel , applied in nine layers . Harnessing the meticulous craft of paillonnage , the golden stamens are highlighted with tiny pieces of 24-carat gold leaf set beneath the enamel . The beautiful tones of blue and green enamel are enhanced by the sparkle of diamond-set gadroons and lugs – a total of approximately 157 diamonds for 1.25 carats . Together , the 50 hours of enamelling and 22 hours of gem-setting represent a total of 72 hours of decorative craft work . The shiny blue alligator leather strap was custom-dyed to perfectly complement the tones of the flowers .
Hibiscus Diamonds unites the crafts of enamelling , paillonnage and diamond-setting in a sparkling rendition of the exotic hibiscus flower . The subject of 12 trials of colour research to achieve the desired shades and subtle graduation , the blue flowers were created in Grand Feu champlevé enamel , requiring 30 hours of work . The stamens of the flowers are highlighted with 24-carat gold leaf set beneath the enamel and , as on the Birds of Paradise watch , a background of snow-set diamonds creates a brilliant contrast with the richly coloured flowers and leaves . Together with the grain-set diamonds on the gadroons and lugs – a total of approximately 523 diamonds for 2.02 carats – the gem-setting represents 120 hours of work . The Reverso One ‘ Precious Flowers ’ Hibiscus Diamonds requires 150 hours of Métiers RaresTM craftsmanship in total .
These pieces , created by the hands of exceptionally talented artisans , are indeed precious jewels and , naturally , they merit fine mechanisms . As testament to Jaeger-LeCoultre ’ s mastery of technical watchmaking , the new Reverso One ‘ Precious Flowers ’ timepieces are fitted with the handwound Calibre 846 .
To be made in an edition of just 10 pieces of each design , every one of these miniature works of art is subtly different – their fine detailing and nuanced colour palettes the product of each artisan ’ s particular gestures , expressing their passion and personality , as well as their remarkable skill .
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THE ART OF LUXURY ISSUE 65 2024