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decorative enamelling techniques . To begin with , sections of the flat metal surface of the case are hollowed out to leave an outline of the desired motif . The enameller then begins painting the details and tonal nuances of the design into the remaining wells and troughs with enamel , one layer at a time – in varying combinations of transparent and opaque enamels to achieve the desired effect . Research into the colours – a long process of trial and error because of the way that enamel pigments react at high temperatures – took more than 50 hours , before the work could even begin .
These new ‘ Precious Flowers ’ designs further elevate the craft of enamelling by combining it with paillonnage . Tiny pieces of 24-carat gold leaf are cut to the exact shape and size of the pattern to be filled in . After a clear layer of fondant enamel has been completed , the enameller takes these tiny fragments and fixes them into place , modelling them to fit the desired space perfectly . Only then can the process of working with the coloured enamel begin .
The cases require 10 or more firings , each one building the intensity and depth of colour . Grand Feu enamelling requires many years of experience as well as great technical skill because the outcome is unpredictable : firing at temperatures up to 800 º Centigrade changes the chemistry of some pigments and only with many years of experience can an enameller predict whether the final colours will be as desired . While every firing increases the beauty of the piece it also increases the risk : the enamel may bubble or crack ; it may burn and shrink ; or the metal base may warp .
On designs with diamond-set backgrounds , the gem-setting can begin only after the enamel work is completed , adding to the delicacy and complexity of the task . Indeed , combining enamelling and gemsetting is a delicate dance between the artisans : while firing hardens the gold , the gem-setter requires soft metal , so the challenge is to find the ideal balance .
At any point during enamelling or gem-setting , the slightest mistake could destroy countless hours of work . These are process that cannot be rushed and that is what makes these decorative crafts so intriguing , going a long way to explaining why they are so highly prized .
ISSUE 65 2024 THE ART OF LUXURY