and foliage. The most surreal creature I have
ever seen in my life is the leaf-tailed gecko.
I don’t believe it when ‘Desi’ shows me treebark, where a mossy leaf-tailed gecko lays flat.
It is startling to see it move, as it literally molds
into the bark, taking the exact same color and
texture, with a tail that seemingly liquefies into
the bark.
The most brightly colored creatures of the
rainforest are the Panther chameleons. Painted
a rainbow of invigorating shades, it is amazing
that these chameleons can be so well-hidden,
but spotting one is impossible without professional eyes. We watch as a panther chameleon
snaffles a cricket whole, and can even hear the
crunching. Nesting inside the long spiky leaves
of a ‘Traveller’s Palm’ or Ravenala, so-called
because it’s sheaths can provide water in the
rainforest, hides a thumbnail-sized Pandanus
tree frog, the smallest frog in Madagascar.
Most visually stunning is the Comet Moth, the
largest species of silk moth in the world, with
spotted golden wings. It’s lifespan is all of just
4-5 days. Walking back, Desi spots the most
beautiful aspect of wildlife on the forest floor,
two butterflies mating. They seem oblivious to
us and remain grounded, their wings reflecting
browns, blues and whites.
Rainforest night hike
What could possibly be more exciting? ‘How
about a night hike,’ Desi proclaims. After dusk,
I’m led on the night hike through Andasibe
forest. Knowing what lurks, I’m anxious. In the
forest, there is only darkness and screaming
silence. It is a cloak, akin to being blindfolded
and ear-plugged. Yet, the exhilaration of
this once-in-a-lifetime experience keeps me
curious. We set off guided only by flashlight.
Very soon, he spots frogs, chameleons and,
eventually, two of the smallest species of
Brown Lemur rustling in the trees. The eeriest
moment is catching glimpse of satanic red
or molten golden eyes glaring back in the
458
flashlight through foliage. Desi reminds me,
‘there are no large animals in Madagascar. No
predators.’ That’s some relief. The Mouse Brown
lemurs are tiny skittish creatures, elusive and
extremely shy; a cross between squirrels and
monkeys in appearance. I catch one munching
on leaves, it’s big watery eyes glistening
in the light. Taking a night hike through a
Madagascan forest is precious. I can’t help but
feel overwhelming respect for wildlife and
nature, seeing why it so desperately needs
protecting. So many species in Madagascar
are endangered and exist solely in this island.
I fear their future if deforestation is allowed to
continue.
Madagascar hosts some of the rarest wildlife in
the world, with scientists consistently discovering uncharted life. To walk through these
forests is incredibly humbling. They are unbridled ecstasy for nature-lovers and those who
crave remoteness. How many times do I look
around and wonder, ‘Where the heck am I?’
Desi has the best eyes in the business. I can't
understand how he spots dragonflies, chameleons and geckos in the bush. The noises he
imitates range from smooching sounds to
loud operatic calls, imitating mating indri indri
lemurs to exotic birdsong. Way before his 10
years as a guide, Desi, as a child, would follow
his grandfather on forest walks. His grandfather was a keen bird-watcher and Desi is too.
Just 2 years ago, he spotted a bird thought to
be extinct, the Helmeted Vanga. He managed
to photograph it, presenting his finding to the
world. That day, ‘I felt my grandfather proud,’
he explains with humility and joy. Desiree is a
special breed, inspiring through his childlike
enthusiasm and detailed knowledge. He could
happily walk these forests for life.
Forested eco-lodge
My blissful Andasibe retreat sprawls several
acres, dotted with individual bungalows. The
eco-lodgings are basic and modest. But the
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