face, which leaves one questioning hope for
the future for many Malagasy. Of course, it also
begs the question of government and why the
people are left to live on the sidelines of death.
Whilst Madagascar has it's native luxury offerings for visitors, it would be a disservice to
sidestep the reality. For those with eyes and
heart wide open, able to accept it as it is, the
rewards of a challenging journey are recompensed with overwhelming beauty, both in
the incredible wildlife and scenery, and hearty
interactions with the ever-smiling people.
Lemurs, lemurs, lemurs
As if clawing my way through a rainforest
of hundreds of acres wasn’t overwhelming
enough, my guide isn’t one to stick to ‘paths.’
At the distant eerie echo of lemur song, he’s
off like a gunshot in pursuit of the Sifaka and
Black-and-white Ruffed lemurs, 2 of more than
100 species inhabiting Madagascar. The most
popular rainforests, Andasibe and Mantadia
national parks lie East of the capital, spanning
thousands of hectares. They’re primary and
secondary forests, part-protected, and home
to many species of Madagascar’s most famous
residents. In a flash, 'Desiree' has disappeared
through thicket so dense I’ve lost him, instilling
an inkling of panic. ‘This way come quick, it’s
a baby,’ the urgency in his call engages my
flight function, as I attempt to trace my guide
like a GPS through the blinding vertical maze
of trees. I duck and dive, chasing him up a
steep covered hill, heaving in the humidity,
feeling entirely enclosed by wild woodland.
The rainforest floor is spongy with no certainty
in footing; drastic drops and uncertain edges
are strewn with foliage, hiding the dangers.
I’m warned not to grab onto tree barks as
they’re likely laden with snakes and spiders or,
at best, itch and rash-inducing leaves with no
known cure. The lemur call echoes through the
forest like a ghostly cry, confusing the tracker.
We switch direction and I launch over fallen
logs, sliding between thick dripping gnarled
vines and hanging twisted stranglers, which
are literally crawling with fiery red tomato
frogs and leaf-shaped geckos. Lemurs move
fast and keeping track in dense rainforest is
an assault course. I find ‘Desi’ gazing upwards
into rocketing canopy. And there I spot the
most beautiful large mother Ruffed lemur.
Peering down from her lap, safely cradled, is a
4-day-old baby, bulging liquid eyes peering at
me loaded with curiosity. It’s a rare sighting, as
baby season hasn’t officially begun. As my eyes
meet the baby’s, all memory of the arduous
prologue is erased. The only conc ern now is
neck pain from spending half an hour looking
directly upwards! Little matches the pleasure
of spending time amidst the lemurs in their
natural environment. The Mother leaps her
large bear-like body from tree to tree, always
upright, baby in lap. They’re agile and nimble
primates, as the father neatly displays hanging
upside down with just one foot gripping a tree
branch. He reaches down to pick and gobble
small tree fruits with disproportionately large
leathery hands that are strikingly human-like.
Later in the morning, we’re entranced by
troops of Sifaka lemurs parading through the
treetops. One family is Verreaux’s sifaka species
with white silky coat and black face, whilst the
other family is Diademed sifaka, emblazoned
in orange shades. Trying to get a clear photo, I
zip through bamboo trees, oftentimes walking
face-first into giant cobwebs. Desiree reminds
me that nothing in the rainforest is venomous,
not even the snakes. But they do bite, as I
see from the stings ensnaring my chest. We
later spot the most beautiful lemur species
that exists, the bamboo lemur. The critically
endangered creature is tiny with an adorable
attractive face. On the treetops, brown lemurs
sneak tree to tree picking fruits, noticeable
only from the crackling leaves whilst whizzing
tree to tree.
After the elation of several hours with various
lemurs, eyes switch focus to close-in on trees
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