Buffalo, as I explain my trepidation of being
close to them. It’s remarkably peaceful as the
huge creatures stomp past mostly nonchalant.
The Hyena remain elusive on this outing.
But, later, we spot a lone male White Rhino
who achieves the unimaginable. He picks
up a scent and heads on the chase, shifting
his weight and stature at hypnotic speed, his
majesty unrivalled. He’s extremely twitchy
and on high alert, and with good reason as
the curiously endearing creatures are facing
extinction. He’s hard to get close to but it feels
a powerful privilege to be in his presence.
The thought that the next generation may
never see rhinos, due to poaching for their
horns, which, in Asia, are believed to contain
medicinal properties, is unbearably sad.
Demand, fuelled mostly from China, triggers
an aggressive chain of poachers down to
local level. The situation is desperate. This is
where &Beyond has stepped in. It has teamed
governments, conservation-minded companies and local communities to translocate
upto 100 rhinos from this region of South
Africa to Botswana. 6 have already successfully
been moved to an unstated location. Should
the population in this region become extinct,
it’s hoped this back-up population may sustain
survival of the species, whilst introducing new
rhino genes to Botswana. Why Botswana? The
country has a traditionally low rhino density
and stringent anti-poaching measures.
What really impresses me about &Beyond
Kirkman’s Camp is the distinct ability of
rangers, like Sean, to engage a full and detailed
conversation on controversial topics. I quiz him
as I attempt to understand poaching, ‘inside
jobs’ and controlled hunting. His opinions are
thoroughly refreshing as he speaks openly
and passionately. He even manages to back
up with statistics and facts learned from his
own research, personal interest and work. If
you’re truly interested in the issues at heart of
nature and wildlife, and want to give yourself
or your family a deeper understanding behind
the safari experience, &Beyond is the most
enriching I’ve encountered in Africa. And it’s
reassuring to know that you’re contributing to
the preser vation of wildlife, just by being there.
Sundowners On Safari
Heading back to base on our final game drive,
the dust in my hair, grit in my teeth and dirt in
my eyes feels second nature. I can name birdcalls and spot Hyena, Cheetah and African wild
cat at distance. We cross a shallow segment
of river where crocodiles are lazing, into deep
thicket. Illuminating the bush, an aged tree
twinkles in fairy lights. Under it, a table is laid
out with a feast of champagne cocktails and
appetizers whispering a lullaby to my rumbling
stomach. Staff from &Beyond appear donning
great big smiles. We stay imbibing and inhaling
the goodies into darkness, a fanciful scene in
the open bush under starlight.
Nature is South Africa’s greatest wealth. In
places like these, great efforts are being taken
to preserve it, loyally and often with selfless
dedication. Lucky for us, as South Africa is a
place to return, over and again.
Anisha Shah is a luxury and emerging destinations travel journalist.
Her background as a BBC TV and radio news reporter, combined
with a longstanding love affair with travel, sees her first on the
scene of new and exciting travel hot spots. Her work has appeared
in The Huffington Post, Yahoo Travel and Prestige Asia.
Follow Anisha on Twitter: @anishahbbc.
www.theaddressmagazine.com
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