side-to-side almost overthrown from the Jeep,
as we tear through muddy embankments.
The chase is worth the while as we’re right in
the midst of an entire juvenile pride of lions
and lionesses play-fighting, climbing trees
and even falling out! Getting back way after
the prescribed time at dusk, I’m further jolted
as the Jeep head-butts tree trunks and locks
fists with stubborn foliage, with Paddy at the
helm. The sighting is incredible, as a pair of
Rhinos hilariously scent-mark trees by rubbing
their 1-tonne bottoms against the bark. The
memories are magical and utterly priceless.
It can only be true that the animals recognize
Paddy’s voice as assurance that they can be
safe whilst unusually close to humans. That,
in itself, promises an invaluable safari with
Savannah game reserve. Retiring to my plush
secluded suite, after an afternoon game drive,
to find my private pool lit up for quick dip
overlooking the grassy savannah plains, a hot
bubble bath ready and filled with petals, bottle
of wine ready to be uncorked and the in-room
masseuse setting up to pamper me with treatments for ultimate relaxation, all aches and
pains are soothed away to the sounds and
rhythm of the wild. I’m captivated by safari in
the Sabi Sands.
Conservation at heart
The Sabi Sands, known as the birthplace of
sustainable wildlife tourism in South Africa,
is a coalition of lodges and people actively
involved in some of the most successful recent
measures protecting this wilderness sanctuary.
Boreholes, which were once drilled for
farmland animals, now provide abundant
water reserves for the wildlife. Highly-trained
guides are at the top of their game to lead
safari drives here. Self-driving is prohibited,
preserving and protecting both wildlife and
humans. ‘Private’ game reserve means it’s not
accessible to day visitors, thus retaining the
Sabi Sands exclusivity and animal protection.
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To enter the secure gates, guests must have a
reservation at one of the private lodges.
This patchwork of private lodges, from
high-end to affordable, has joined forces to
adopt sustainable practices, such as a very slick
communal radio operation ensuring
only 1-2 vehicles can be with any animal
sighting at once. This enables everyone fair
viewing of a limited time whilst giving the
animals their space. The lodges also run
community outreach and environmental
programs and proactively source ways to
minimize tourism impact.
Roaming with Rhinos – Kirkman’s Camp
One of the most highly anticipated ventures
is ‘Rhinos Without Borders’. At the forefront of
this initiative is the &Beyond fairytale collection of luxury lodges. My next stop is their
stylish Kirkman’s Camp property.
At the confluence of the Sabi and Sand Rivers,
&Beyond Kirkman’s Camp is cocooned by wildlife at every turn. I arrive at lunchtime, where
witnessing wildlife doesn’t even require leaving
camp. My alfresco lunch spot is a superior
cliff-top with stupendous views over a mass
migration of Buffalo. They’re crossing the Sand
River below while elephants roam warily in the
distance and Zebras keep watch from afar, just
as eagerly as baboons eye up my lunch!
Afterwards, I’m whisked off on a private game
drive with skilled ranger Sean Messham. The
advantage of a private drive is being able to
ask direct questions and gain insight based on
personal interests. He asks what I’d like to see.
‘Leopards, rhino and, for me, Hyena.’
It’s not long before we happen upon the most
startling sighting; a pair of newborn leopard
Cubs. They’re playfighting, sometimes using
their mother as a shield and leaping around
her, before she gently smacks them down.
Their piercing yellow eyes are spellbinding as
they inquisitively glance in my direction. Next,
Sean drives us through a 100-strong her of
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