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THIS 'N THaT Gorges Lodge - Victoria Falls Like crashing surf, the sound of the tortured Zambezi echoes through the gorge. Rising and falling at the whim of the breeze, the mood is carried on sullied air, as the last light of the day fades on the western horizon. Below, the Zambezi cuts a dark, almost black line at the foot of the gorge, visible even as dusk seeps through its deepest reaches. Writhing and twisting past point and rock, its surface ripped by rapids, it falters little as it pushes ever determinedly to the Indian Ocean. O wned by Matupula Safaris, Gorges is possibly one of the more unique lodges at the Victoria Falls. Located a short distance from the Falls itself, it perches quite literally on the edge of the Batoka Gorge - a mystical tortured rent in the earth’s crust more than 200km long which has been formed over millions of years by the Zambezi. Every building, from the bar and restaurant, to the 10 lodges strung along the gorge, is quite literally on the cliff edge -some virtually overhanging it. Situated only 23km from the Falls (12 of which is on good gravel road), Gorges is close enough to the main centre to be convenient, whilst still being far enough away to be remote. Ten lodges (four of which are double storey) comprising two or three bedded accommodation, cater to a maximum of 20 guests. Stretching in a line on either side of the main restaurant complex, the tropical gardens which wind along the walkways, coupled with the almost old English style buildings, lend an air of the colonial to the hostile, but inspiring Batoka. Tastefully furnished, and finished in a mixture of plaster and wood panelling, the lodges have their own bathroom and spacious P a g e 16 bedroom with walk-out balcony overhanging the gorge. Separated by considerable distance, each lodge enjoys its own private piece of the gorge. Constructed using the best of imported materials, the complex exudes a degree of luxury normally associated with a five star hotel. Transfers to and from the Falls (and airport) as well as other local destinations are available if required. They will arrange tours or safaris (white water rafting, flight of the angels etc.) on request, and offer a unique visit to a working village within their CAMPFIRE area, where little has changed among the local Tonga people over the centuries. Fishing is not something on the standard menu, though on one visit to the lodges we did climb down into the gorge (not for the faint hearted) and tried our luck. The huge boulders and oppressive heat in the gorge made fishing difficult, but it was an experience. Several adventure anglers and guides from the area do in fact fish the gorge often, targeting yellowfish among others. Fly rods are normally their chosen weapon, and the results in the fast water have been spectacular. V o l . 21 # 1