FOOD REVIEW
Tees Life co-editor Dave Allan visits The Orangery to check out the latest
creation from Rockliffe Hall’s celebrated chef Richard Allen…
Fine dine with wine
Luxury leaps from every corner of Rockliffe
Hall Hotel. From its world-class spa and
18-hole championship golf course to the
elegant rooms of its award-winning hotel,
here is a place stamped with the hallmark of
quality. And Rockliffe’s flagship 4AA Rosette
Orangery restaurant will ensure it stays right
at the top of any discerning foodies’ wish list
with the launch of its new 10-course tasting
menu.
Yes, you did read that correctly. Executive
chef Richard Allen has delivered his latest
mouth-watering marvel in the shape and
flavour of no less than 10 courses.
And he delivers on his promise to provide
a unique journey of textures, temperatures
and tastes, where every dish tells its own
story.
Having booked in for an overnight
stay, my better half Bernie and I had built
our appetites indulging in the hotel’s
superb spa facilities before happily joining
knowledgeable head sommelier Daniel
Jonberger in the cellar for a wine-tasting
session that was as entertaining as it was
educational.
Now we were ready for further indulgence
on a busy Saturday evening amid the tasteful,
gold hue of the Orangery.
If 10 courses sounds like too much, be
assured that servings lean towards the petit.
Each course – a work of art every time – was
tasty and small enough to leave us wanting
more.
As we opted for the wine pairing option,
each dish was coupled with an exquisite wine
specially selected and served by Daniel, who
readily admitted to having had great fun
creating the combinations with Richard, one
of the UK’s most celebrated chefs.
My wife and I pride ourselves in being
open-minded about trying new food, but
even we raised our eyebrows as our first
course arrived…Beetroot and Ragstone
Cheese.
We needn’t have worried. The wonderfully
light dish was topped by the unusual texture
of melt-in-the-mouth beetroot meringue
wafers. It shouldn’t have worked but it very
definitely did.
Next up was Lamb Hotpot, served in tiny
mug-shaped pots. And so delicious, we both
agreed, that we could easily have eaten a
Luxury - Rockliffe Hall Hotel, and
(below) some of the dishes that
form part of the Orangery’s new
ten-course tasting menu.
whole plate of it.
Our next course was Crab, Chicken Crisp,
Bergamont and Harissa, which a quick
Google check told us was a Tunisian pepper
paste, which we flushed down with a fine
Portuguese red.
The next taste explosion came in the form
of tender, juicy morsels of Pigeon combined
with Dahl, Coriander, Lime and Cashew.
Then came Chalk Stream Trout,
Fermented Cucumber, Mussel and Dill, a
stunning combination of subtle tastes and
strong flavours. Our attention switched to
the wine, a 2014 Reisling from the Wente
Vineyard in the States. Thankfully, Daniel
warned us in advance that it smelled like
petrol. Thankfully, it tasted of heaven.
The delights continued as we enjoyed
Landrace Pork, Langoustine and Kimchi
– a perfect match for an Italian Merlot –
followed by Blue Monday Cheese, Waldorf
Flavours and Chia Seed, coupled with a
superb 2007 Riversalte Ambie.
It was at this point that Bernie announced
herself full. But she nobly battled on,
finding room for pudding – first Preserved
Strawberries, Shiso and Sake, before an overly
green dish of pear, pistachio and matcha that
she enjoyed more than I did.
Let’s be clear, the Orangery’s tasting menu
definitely isn’t for picky eaters. The decidedly
experimental feel to the experience continued
to the end with a final “course” of a macaroon
perched on some pine leaves.
It doesn’t come cheap either. The tasting
menu is £80 per head – and another £60 if you
go for the wine pairing option.
However, we were unanimous that the entire
experience had lived up to our own very high
expectations. That included the exquisite,
friendly service from an international trio of
Stockholm’s Daniel, Jatin from Bombay and
Johannes from Bruges.
Our view on the 10-course tasting menu? 10
out of 10 – even if my other half would have been
happy to stop after a magnificent seven.
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