FOOD REVIEW
Michael McGeary reviews dinner at Chadwicks Inn Maltby . The holder of a prized Michelin Bib Gourmand along with two AA Rosettes , it ’ s the most decorated restaurant on Teesside …
THE ‘ INN ’ PLACE
I
’ d enjoyed Sunday lunch at Chadwicks Inn Maltby but never visited for an evening meal , despite hearing good reports about it .
The positive vibes began soon after entering , as we were warmly greeted by polite and attentive staff , invited to sit in comfy leather armchairs and offered a predinner drink .
The restaurant ’ s tasteful contemporary décor still manages to be in keeping with its traditional country pub exterior .
We were tempted by chef ’ s special , chateaubriand for two with all the trimmings (£ 65 ), but in the end I decided to go à la carte , while my wife chose from the £ 27.50 set menu .
A couple nearby ordered the chateaubriand and I felt a brief pang of regret when I saw it being carved at their table as we were being seated in the full restaurant . But my jealousy was short-lived and I was soon feeling satisfied with my own choices .
I began with seared king scallops Cullen Skink (£ 11 ), a light , summery starter that I ’ ve wanted to try since seeing it on menus during a trip to the north coast of Scotland , from where the dish hails . The perfectly cooked scallops came in a creamy soup and with delicious , tiny squares of smoked haddock , leek and potato .
The dish was paired , on the sommelier ’ s recommendation , with a glass of Spanish Verdejo , a dry , crisp white that resembled a sauvignon blanc .
My wife chose pressing of homemade corned beef , ale chutney , sourdough bread and lovage butter . The meat had the appearance of a pâté but the texture was much more appealing . I tried it – just to be sociable , of course – and can concur with her verdict that it ’ s a dish you just want to keep eating more of .
I decided to continue with my seafood theme and opted for halibut , native lobster and mussel bisque with potato and tarragon dumplings and samphire (£ 25 ) for my main course , accompanied by a glass of Chateau L ’ Ermitage , a delicious modern French rose that packed an unexpectedly dry punch .
My wife , however , stuck with her more carnivorous mood , selecting pork confit belly with slow cooked pork cheek , Doreen ’ s black pudding with fresh peas and red wine sauce .
I was anxious about this apparently reckless choice as she doesn ’ t eat pork – but I was reassured as she devoured the dish before concluding , “ There isn ’ t one element on my plate that doesn ’ t taste amazing !”
Afterwards we shared the Taste of Chadwicks ’ Desserts , which included salted caramel custard tart and pineapple parfait .
This turned into something of a race as we endeavoured to polish off the range of accompanying sorbets before they melted on the wooden serving board .
Not only was the food outstanding but we couldn ’ t fault the service and especially the knowledgeable wine recommendations .
Coffees and dessert wine sent us on our merry way , vowing to return later in the year for one of the restaurant ’ s regular wine tasting evenings .
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