here for a while and I know tomorrow I’ll be
scoring a real wave, a bit more famous...
maybe crowded. Maybe not... But today, I
get some pictures that I never thought I’d
have.
Something special
Every day is a new day. But every dawn in
Central America has something special to
offer. A light that you can’t find anywhere
else. That is why I love to go super early and
see the first morning sunbeams hitting the
wave’s white water. It is not white really. It’s
creamier. Sweet. Gentle. But it is super short
as the sun rises fast. Too fast in these
tropical skies.
The swell is here. I still remember
yesterday’s session but of course, I
completely focus on the perfect blue wave
that I have known for a while, and of which I
never get bored or used to. It is one of those
perfect moments. Surfers are here too and if
you behave as you must with your SUP
there won’t be any trouble.
First light is around 5:30am and you can be
pretty much by yourself for a few waves.
Then comes a little crowd. People that live
here, locals or not. It is sometimes a good
vibe and sometimes a bit tough as it is
everywhere else in the world I guess. But
what makes this part of the world so special
is the feeling that you might find
something new.
Spanish conquistadores
It is still the as the Spanish conquistadores
named it. It is somehow different from our
old European patterns. In terms of history
but also in terms of geography, landscapes
and road network. It is a place where you
can shoot perfect waves and shoot
wonderful wildlife with your camera. So
many beaches, reefs, rights, lefts, volcanos,
forests, dry lands, wetlands and
earthquakes. So many things in such a
small piece of land, stuck between two giant
continents and two giant oceans.
People who come here usually come back
and sometimes stay. I did. It is easy to
travel nowadays, but it is precious to feel
complete because you fit in a place you
like. At the very moment where you need it.
It almost could make me think there are no
coincidences and everything comes for a
reason. Nah, I’m not getting into levitation
yoga whatsoever. Just happy to keep
surprising myself with unexpected
pleasures in paradise.
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