peeling close to the shore. Not the kind of wave you
would see in a double spread of a hardcore surfing
mag but still! I didn’t’ event know it could be
possible here! This is not an accident, it keeps
coming in! Set after set. Little gentle waves right
here. Untouched. I came with a few boards so we
could cruise and practice some stroke technique
but now that I see this. I know I have to try... Sorry
guys, you can go snorkelling, I have a different
meeting now.
Influence of the two oceans
In Central America there is a concentration of
variety. And of course biodiversity. Not even
mentioning waves! The narrow land and the
influence of the two oceans (Atlantic and Pacific)
make it a unique zone for wildlife and it seems also
that all types of landscapes are gathered here.
I’ve been travelling this area for almost 20 years
now. Ever since I was able to travel for surfing. It’s
been a hell of a ride! I’ve had good and bad
encounters, some adventures and some scary
experiences. But guess what? I still get surprised!
Of course this is not the world class wave you would
expect but I’m super excited to be the only one in
the water. I am the only one riding this crazy little
wave that was never expected to break here. It is
uncharted territory and I feel like an explorer! The
landscape and the feeling are just like being in a
dream. A perfect secluded beach, blue sky, wild
nature, white sand; it is like a photo studio. Almost
unreal. Surreal.
Like this day, when I had to bring a group of friends
to a special sheltered beach where they could go
snorkelling and SUP cruising. You know, that kind of
day where you should be searching for waves
because the swell just arrived. But you can’t
because you promised your friends you would take
them somewhere nice and you’ve been postponing
this for too long already. That kind of days where
you usually would never end up in that beach. For
good reasons! It is flat there! Good for fishing or
learn