26 EPIC DRIVING TOURS IN NEWFOUNDLAND
On the surface of it , the idea of persuading three kids to stay in a home without a TV , wi-fi or even a telephone is a terrible idea . But all three quickly grew to love the space , running around in the front yard with a stick and a ball , hanging laundry to dry on the line , playing cards at night , and venturing out with fishing poles during the day . We watched the sun set on the bay from the home ’ s backyard with snacks and refreshments , and it was an utterly peaceful experience .
From this starting point , we ventured in the direction of Harbour Grace , some 40 kilometres west . This is the place where Amelia Earhart took off on for her solo flight across the Atlantic Ocean in 1932 , becoming the first woman
From this home base , we embarked on an epic whalewatching tour hosted by Sea of Whales Adventures , launching out of Trinity . You can watch whale documentaries from the comfort of your couch , but until you ’ re close enough to worry about being capsized by one of these gigantic creatures , you haven ’ t lived the experience .
During the three-hour tour , we followed along the shoreline and tracked a small pod of humpbacks as they searched for caplin to eat . Whenever the people on board the boat cheered the whales , they complied by breaching and gliding alongside just long enough for photos to capture the experience . It was so surreal an experience , it seemed as if it were staged .
LEFT : DISCOVERY TRAIL , BONAVISTA ; MIDDLE : FRESH FISH , TRINITY ; RIGHT : DISCOVERY TRAIL , BONAVISTA . ( PHOTOS COURTESY OF NEWFOUNDLAND AND LABRADOR TOURISM )
to accomplish the feat . In the town , there ’ s a statue honouring her , a proud monument set in front of Douglas DC-3 named “ The Spirit of Harbour Grace .”
The town itself is equally captivating . A former fishing outpost , Harbour Grace has been decimated by fire over the years , but many historic buildings remain . In fact , there ’ s a faded glory to the place and enough life in its streets to suggest better times ahead .
Just across Trinity Bay from the Baccalieu Coastal Drive is another picturesque route , the Discovery Trail . Here , again , there are countless quaint seaside villages to visit . We settled in for two nights at the glorious Goose Cove Retreat , a spectacular private home just outside the town of Trinity . This home , divided into three segments painted in different colours , had absolutely everything needed for a truly restful stay : a gourmet kitchen , sauna , hot tub , fire pit , bicycles and a waterside dock .
The Discovery Trail is located in the Bonavista Peninsula , which received designation as a UNESCO World Geopark in 2020 , one of only five such areas in Canada . From the town of Trinity , the trail passes though quaint seaside settlements en route to the northern tip of the peninsula and the town of Bonavista . This historic town is another on the verge of a resurgence , spurred in part through annual events such as the Bonavista Biennale celebration of contemporary art .
In this part of Newfoundland , our planning ultimately fell short and we ran out of flexibility and time . There was for more to see than we managed . We didn ’ t get to the Dungeon Provincial Park or the Tickle Cove Sea Arch or to Bird Island , home to one of the largest puffin colonies in the world . We didn ’ t want to ever leave the area , but we had run out of options .
We vowed to return again .