Speciality Chemicals Magazine SEP / OCT 2026 | Page 52

COSMETICS & PERSONAL CARE

Phase Trade Name / Supplier INCI name Wt %

A

B

C

D

Water Water 39.44 Glycerin Glycerin 20.00 PGL 103KC / KCI Limited Polyglycerin-3 1.50 Hydrolite 6 / Symrise 1,2-Hexanediol 9.90 Hydrolite 5 green / Symrise Pentylene glycol 4.00 Propylene Glycol( PG) USP / EP / Dow Propylene Glycol 15.00 Euxyl PE 9010 / Ashland Phenoxyethanol( and) Ethylhexylglycerin 0.90 Unicert yellow 08005-J / Sensient CI 19140( 0,5 % in water) 0.03 EcoSmooth Universal Fluid 2000 / Dow PPG-5 Butyl Ether 5.00 Eco tween 20 / Croda Polysorbate 20 1.15 Sepimax ZEN / Seppic Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6 0.53

Sepinov EMT 10 / Seppic

Hydroviton 24 / Symrise

modifiers and a moisturising active complex( Table 2). This offers three key features:

• Compatibility within the formulation, helping create a stable and elegant system despite the coexistence of aqueous and oily components

• A refined sensory profile comparable to a cyclopentasiloxane-based benchmark, with the added

Hydroxyethyl Acrylate / Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer

Water( and) Allantoin( and) Pentylene Glycol( and) Glycerin( and) Sodium Lactate( and) Lactic Acid( and) Serine( and) Urea( and) Sorbitol( and) Sodium Chloride

Le goût de la soie / Symrise Perfume 0.08 Tris Amino Ultra PC( sol 30 %) / Angus Tromethamine q. s.

Table 2- Face serum formulation

Phase Trade Name / Supplier INCI name Wt %

A

B

EcoSmooth Universal Fluid 2000 / Dow PPG-5 Butyl Ether 5.0

Coconut virgin oil refined organic / FFL earthoil

Table 3- Hair oil formulation

0.53

1.94

Cocos Nucifera( Coconut) Oil 3.0

Dowsil PMX-1507 Fluid / Dow Dimethicone( and) Dimethiconol 40.0

Xiameter PMX-200 Silicone Fluid 2 cSt / Dow

Dimethicone 51.6

Dl-alpha Tocopherol / DSM Tocopherol 0.2 Coco 895354 / Symrise Perfume 0.2

Figure 3- Sensory profile of hair oil

Dry hand combing

benefit of lower tackiness after absorption

• High polarity helping to enable a markedly clearer formulation at 5 wt %, reinforcing its value in transparent or translucent serum concepts where visual purity is a key element of product appeal

Hair care

The clear hair oil prototype illustrates how EcoSmooth Universal Fluid

2000 can address demands for shine, smoothness, frizz control and lightweight feel. In this formulation, the fluid is used at 5 wt % alongside coconut oil, dimethicone or dimethiconol fluid, dimethicone 2 cSt, tocopherol and fragrance( Table 3 & Figure 3). Key features include:

• Strong compatibility with coconut oil and, under the reported test conditions, better compatibility with coconut oil than dimethicone 5 cSt

• High compatible with lowviscosity silicone fluids like dimethicone 2 cSt, an advantage when designing hybrid systems with elegant sensory performance

• Supporting a clear formulation while delivering competitive sensory performance on both bleached and frizzy hair

Conclusion

Across both skin and hair care, EcoSmooth Universal Fluid 2000 demonstrates how a single multifunctional readily biodegradable fluid can offer compatibility, sensorial performance and technical utility within one ingredient platform.

Its broad compatibility profile, including a wide range of oils, fragrances, low-viscosity silicones, organic UV filters and functional materials, helps support high formulation flexibility across multiple formats, cold or hot processing conditions, and in both emulsions and anhydrous systems. ●

*- Also contributing to this article were Gislene Attilio-Meyer, global segment leader, Wendy Xu, research scientist, Tina Scavuzzo, lab specialist, and Rosalind Toth, technologist, at Dow

**- EcoSmooth is a trademark of The Dow Chemical Company( Dow) or an affiliated company

Dry overall sensory Dry smoothness

52 SPECIALITY CHEMICALS MAGAZINE ESTABLISHED 1981