Advancing multifunctional formulation design in skin & hair care
Celine Levenez-Bougaran, associate TS & D scientist at Dow, demonstrates how a single multifunctional readily biodegradable fluid can offer compatibility, sensorial performance and technical utility within one ingredient platform *
EcoSmooth Universal Fluid 2000: Ingredient 1:9 5:5 9:1 Polar ingredients Water NC NC NC Ethanol C C C Glycerin NC NC NC Propylene glycol C C C Octyldodecanol C C C Silicones Cyclopentasiloxane C C C Dimethicone 2 cSt C C NT
Dimethicone 5 cSt C C H Dimethicone 50 cSt NC NC NC Phenyl trimethicone C C C Caprylyl methicone C C C Trimethylsiloxysilicate NT C C Trimethylsiloxysilicate( and) polypropylsilsesquioxane NT C C Dimethiconol NT NC NC
Caprylyl methicone( and) PEG-12 dimethicone / PPG-20 crosspolymer
NT C C
Dimethicone( and) dimethicone crosspolymer NT H H Hydrocarbons Undecane( and) tridecane C C C C13-15 alkane C C C C15-19 alkane C C C Isododecane C C C Isohexadecane C C C
EcoSmooth Universal Fluid 2000: Ingredient |
1:9 |
5:5 |
9:1 |
Vegetable oils and butter Helianthus annuus( sunflower) seed oil |
C |
C |
C |
Ricinus communis seed oil |
C |
C |
C |
Cocos nucifera oil |
H |
C |
C |
Butyrospermum parkii shea butter |
H |
C |
C |
Simmondsia chinensis seed oil |
C |
C |
C |
Theobroma cacao( cocoa) seed Butter |
H |
C |
C |
Prunus amygdalus dulcis( sweet Almond) oil |
C |
C |
C |
Sesamum indicum seed oil |
C |
C |
C |
Olea europaea fruit oil |
C |
C |
C |
Argania spinosa kernel oil |
C |
C |
C |
Esters C12-15 alkyl benzoate |
C |
C |
C |
Isopropyl myristate |
C |
C |
C |
Isopropylpalmitate |
C |
C |
C |
Caprylic / capric triglyceride |
C |
C |
C |
Polyalkylene glycols PPG-14 butyl ether |
C |
C |
C |
Levulinate Ethyl PG-acetal levulinate |
C |
C |
C |
Table 1- Compatibility overview
C = Compatible & clear H = Compatible & hazy NC = Not compatible NT = Not Tested
As beauty brands face growing demand to offer compliant and high-performing products, formulators need solutions that go beyond meeting basic requirements: they must also support meaningful differentiation. Beyond performance and compliance, sensory experience plays a critical role: ingredients that offer appealing textures and sensorial benefits can enhance consumer satisfaction.
At the same time, shorter development cycles call for greater formulation efficiency. Ingredients capable of delivering consistent performance across multiple applications can reduce development time, simplify formulation design and optimise inventory management. When evaluated on a cost-in-use basis, this versatility can translate into additional operational and economic benefits that brands increasingly prioritise.
EcoSmooth ** Universal Fluid 2000( INCI: PPG-5 Butyl Ether) was specifically developed to provide these advantages. This readily biodegradable emollient enables the development of next-generation skin care and hair care formulations that combine sustainability credentials with superior sensorial performance, while supporting faster development, China compliance and improved
EcoSmooth Universal Fluid 2000: Ingredient 5:5 9:1 Solid sun filters Bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine C at 75 ° C C Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane C at 75 ° C C Ethylhexyl triazone NC C Liquid sun filters Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate C C Ethylhexyl salicylate C C Octocrylene C C Homosalate C C
cost-efficiency, thus helping the development of globally scalable, multifunctional products.
Cross-functional performance
Rather than functioning solely as a conventional emollient, EcoSmooth Universal Fluid 2000 functions as a versatile formulation tool that helps address multiple design priorities at once. Its crystal-clear liquid appearance and low odour suit it to
50 SPECIALITY CHEMICALS MAGAZINE ESTABLISHED 1981