COSMETICS & PERSONAL CARE
Avoiding the paradox
Arxada introduced Geomulse , a line of non-ionic , plant-based emulsifiers and surfactants based on polyglcyerol esters . These are nonpolyethylene glycol ( PEG ), ethylene oxide ( EO ) - , propylene oxide ( PO ) - and 1,4-dioxane free , and are RSPO Mass Balance certified , while offering exceptional mildness on skin and eyes and for its ability to moisturise and hydrate the skin .
“ They have a really nice back story ,” Sam Collier , HPC preservation marketing manager , told SCM . “ They are fully sustainable , ISO 1608 , GMOfree and non-animal tested . They are also really versatile , so you can use them in everything from a very low-viscosity liquid all the way up to a very high-viscosity cream or even solid formats , while giving foam-build and surfactancy .”
According to Arxada , Geomulse can help formulators to “ evade the apparent paradox of speaking to consumers ’ desire to care for their bodies and the environment while meeting their demands for innovative , luxurious products , based on a single , versatile and customisable chemistry that provides improved formulation efficiency and speed to market ”.
Lubrizol Life Science Beauty ( LLS Beauty ) launched Carbopol Fusion S-20 polymer , an inherently biodegradable , sulfate-free starchbased rheology modifier . It is made using liquid hybrid technology and designed to suspend , stabilise , thicken and enhance the appearance of personal cleansing products .
The company says that Carbopol Fusion S-20 is manufactured according to all 12 Principles of Green Chemistry . It is GMO- , EO- and PEG-free , with a low carbon footprint . Marketing communications manager Dorota Niemczycka described it as the first step towards the goal of having a 100 % natural rheology modifier with the same performance as existing ones .
LLS Beauty also introduced Zenerity , a 100 % natural active ingredient derived from a thermal spring in Italy . The company claims that it “ soothes skin inflammation while defying ageing , even when exacerbated by an unhealthy diet ” and helps to “ achieve a soothed , youthful and healthy skin appearance ”.
The company cites in vitro tests showed Zenerity counteracted skin inflammation and the build-up of cellular waste , known as garb-aging , while showing an anti-glycation effect , even under metabolic stress conditions . It can be added to topical skin care products aiming to minimise skin sensitivity and can also form part of multifunctional rejuvenating skin care products for the most sensitive skin types .
Flower power
Symrise launched Flowerconcentrole , a collection of olfactive flower extracts that are sustainably and traceably sourced from Madagascar , France and Bulgaria for skin care products . They are 100 % -natural and readily biodegradable , use upcycled ingredients , are cold-processable and offer antimicrobial properties .
LLS Beauty ’ s Zenerity is sourced derived from a thermal spring
Delivered in transparent or slightly opalescent liquid form , they are claimed to harness the neuroscientific link between the olfactive properties of plant extracts and the stimulation of positive emotions . “ Thanks to Symrise ’ s Actimood technology , the products in this range can bring mood-enhancing properties to formulations . This helps brands deliver neurocosmetic benefits to consumers in turn ” the company stated .
The main new product from Givaudan Active Beauty was SilkiCare , a vegan silk protein produced via the fermentation of an optimised sequence of silk proteins . This creates a uniform 3D fibrillar network when applied to the skin ’ s surface , giving it “ remarkable film-forming properties ”, the company stated . It forms a protective barrier that removes over 96 % of pollution particles with studies demonstrating a seven-fold reduction in pore size , as little as 15 minutes after application .
Although many are promoting alternatives to silicone , Wacker Chemie continues to innovate in this
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