COSMETICS & PERSONAL CARE
dioxide . Other applications include lipsticks and mineral sunscreen . Product testing has also it to have exceptional thermal stability for heat protection applications .
Sharon also introduced SharoHyal Moringa , a haircare active , made from a combination of medium molecular weight hyaluronic acid and hydrolysed moringa micro-proteins , both sustainably sourced . These have negative and positive charges respectively , creating chemical bonds that form a protective layer on the cuticle , re-building damaged hair strands . In clinical testing , SharoHyal Moringa has proven to restore hair moisturisation by 45 % after only one treatment . After seven , it increases hair elasticity and resilience by 6 %.
Back to our roots
Among other things , Clariant launched the natural active ingredient CycloRetin . This is an alternative to retinol that is extracted from the roots of Prince Ginseng , an adaptogenic plant that is widely used in traditional Chinese medicine . This aligns with the ‘ gentle beauty ’ trend , marketing manager Julie Deroux told a pre-show press conference . Prince Ginseng is soured from ‘ geo-authentic ’ areas of China and fully certified .
The company cited laboratory results showing improvements in skin sagging , firmness and increased radiance in 28 days . CycloRetin has both linear and cyclic peptide content . The latter enables it to boost collagen by 133 % while avoiding the skin irritation that sometimes accompanies retinol , a widely used ingredient with which it will compete in some applications .
Dow , according to regional marketing manager Alesssandra Marelli , aims “ to orchestrate the success of our customers . The key word is orchestrate because we have so many solutions inside our portfolio from silicones to organics ”. The focus was on three ‘ concept collections ’:
• Dermocosmetics Concepts , focusing on 30 products chosen
Dow showcased three ‘ concept collections ’ in Paris
for their ability to address specific skin and scalp conditions . These included some recently certified by MyMicrobiome , including the first skin microbiome-friendly certified silicone technologies in the industry
• Hair Care , highlighting formulations that “ are sustainable , deliver shine and align with key industry trends ”, including one in powder form with only 6 % water content that still produces the same level of foam as a standard shampoo
• Make-Up , where the formulations are designed with > 90 % natural origin content However , Dow did also launch some new products , including the first carbon-neutral silicone elastomer blend , PAS 2060 , which is certified for skin and make-up applications , and MaizeCare Style . The latter is a 100 % biodegradable hydrolysed corn starch for use as a film former in colour cosmetics and skin care , where its predecessor was targeted only at hair care .
Syensqo revealed its new launches under the slogan ‘ Where beauty meets science ’. These addressed such market trends as silicone replacement , sulfate-free formulations , ethical sourcing and dermocosmetics , while combining the highest performance levels with ease of use and environmental responsibility . They included :
• Dermalcare Avolia MB , a mixture of esters and natural oils that the company calls “ a major step toward silicone replacement ”. It claims outstanding wet and dry combing performance while matching the sensory specificities of silicone oils
• Geropon TC Clear MB , a sodium methyl cocoyl taurate that provides all the benefits of taurates without the problems associated with handling
• Miranol Ultra L-28 ULS MB , an ultra-low salt surfactant for applications like baby care , making thickening easier
• Naternal Care Clear SGI , the first readily biodegradable , nonecotoxic and ethically-sourced conditioning polymer
• Mirataine CBS UP , a fully circular sultaine , derived from Roundtable on Sustainable Palm Oil ( RSPO ) fatty acids , green epichlorohydrin and bio-circular certified dimethylaminopropylamine Historically , Syensqo has been active mostly in hair care and cleansing , but it is also moving more into skin care . Company representatives at In- Cosmetics noted the trends towards the customisation of care , scalp care and the skinification of hair care . It is addressing these in its new product development , as well as the wider biodegradabilty and non-ecotoxicity trends in formulations .
52 SPECIALITY CHEMICALS MAGAZINE ESTABLISHED 1981