COSMETICS & PERSONAL CARE markets . It particularly emphasised three new nature-derived , biodegradable ingredients from the Transformed Vegetable Oil platform :
• Antaron soja glyceride , a filmformer that adds water resistance and sun protection factor boosting benefits to sun care and colour cosmetic formulations
• Softhance MR , a conditioning agent that is claimed to deliver perceivable skin softness from rinseoff cleansing formulations
• Gantrez soja delivery system , which is substantive to oral mucosa and enamel to keep oral care actives in the mouth for long-lasting benefits The company also showcased three new biofunctional actives :
• Perfectyl , which is derived from chamomile using solventfree , electromagnetic Zeta Fraction technology and Artificial Intelligence to create a concentrated extract rich in γ-amino butyric acids and flower acids
• Sclareance , a natural purified sclareolide obtained by fermentation from clary sage flowers that is said to boost the 4D defences of the skin and help it to transform Vitamin D into its active form
• Saffragyl , which is based on biodegradable , upcycled crocus flower extract for daily gum care “ We are applying the science of the skin to the scalp with Sclareance and responding to the skinification of hair care . There are also parts of the gum that need more than simply brushing teeth . Saffragyl is the first ingredient in our platform addressing the skinification of gum care ,” said Matthias Hentz , global product manager .
Saffragyl was developed to restrict of the growth of bacteria on the gum , specifically one that causes gingivitis . A clinical study showed that it can significantly reduce plaque on the teeth over three months , as well as reducing gum inflammation , Hentz said . It can be used as an ingredient in toothpaste , mouthwash and newer concepts like overnight soothing gels
Preservation platform
Sharon Personal Care had seven product launches on show from its R & D hubs in Italy and Israel . The main one , said CEO Naama Eylon in a press conference on the show floor , is AquaVita , a multifunctional preservation platform based on niacinamide ( Vitamin B 3
) with synergistic effects from added antimicrobial compounds .
“ It can be hard to innovate in preservation – it is a category of products that is just tolerated ,” Eylon said . “ Nobody wants a preservative : you put it in because you absolutely have to . We wanted to make it desirable .”
Preservation , she continued , was at first simply about safety , then being ‘ free from ’, a list that has grown continuously . Sharon wanted to come up with something that gave a real benefit . It spent several years working on preservatives based on vitamins that would offer protection , the multiple skin benefits of niacinamide and be sustainable , hoping thus to revolutionise preservation .
AquaVita has enhanced hydrophilicity , which boosts its effectiveness against microorganisms through a novel approach . Rather than solely impacting microorganisms ’ outer layer , it disrupts their reproductive process , more effectively preventing their growth . The platform is dermatologically tested for sensitive skin , is microbiome-friendly and shows excellent antioxidant properties , the company claims .
The first two launches from the platform have been AquaVita 90 and 95 , based on a family of synthetic glycols and more natural polylysine respectively . Both are China-compliant , palm-free , vegan , colourless , odourless and highly water-soluble . They also come in powder form for reduced transport costs . There has already been much customer interest in the latter , Eylon said .
In addition , Sharon launched Sharofeel DS , a 100 % natural emollient derived from succinic acid and 2-octyl dodecanol . A crystal clear , odourless liquid , it is claimed to improve skin moisturisation , flexibility and smoothness in both skincare and haircare formulations .
In testing , the company states , Sharofeel DS has demonstrated good performance in the dispersion of mineral pigments , including zinc oxide , mica , iron oxides and titanium
Evonik uses the baobab in its new products