COSMETICS & PERSONAL CARE
smoothness , and wet combing and detangling for wet hair ; and for dry combing , manageability and ease of styling , softness , shine and volume in dry hair , were essentially the same as for BTAC or slightly better ( Figure 2 ).
Formulation examples
AminoSensyl Ultra MB has been used in four demonstration formulations . The first was at 4.0 % - the lowest recommended use level – in place of BTAC in a natural hydrating conditioner ( Figure 3 ).
It was paired with 2.0 % of Inolex ’ s alternative to dimethicone , LexFeel N350 MB * ( INCI : Diheptyl Succinate ( and ) Capryloyl Glyerin / Sebacic Acid Copolymer ), preserved with Spectrastat G2 Natural MB * ( INCI : Caprylhydroxamic Acid ( and ) Glycerly Caprylate ( and ) Glycerin ), plus guar gum , cetearyl alcohol and fragrance . This 100 % natural formulation gives a luxury texture and feel , with very similar characteristics to a formulation with BTAC but also with added smoothness and gloss . It was tested on European curled hair and was found to give good definition and smoothness with no frizz , as well as good gloss and shine .
Another formulation was a 97.5 % natural purple conditioner , a kind of product that is showing strong market growth in recent years to restore colour to certain hair types . Inolex incorporated 8.0 % AminoSensyl Ultra MB , 2.5 % LexFeel N350 MB and 1.2 % Spectrastat G2 Natural MB with almond oil , a violet dye that was the only non-natural ingredient , and 0.3 % of Inolex ’ s PhytoTrace Saffron * ( INCI : Crocus Sativus ( Saffron ) Flower Extract ( and ) Glycerin ( and ) Water )) in deionised water .
Bleached blonde tresses were treated with the natural purple conditioner formulation based on AminoSensyl Ultra MB , BTAC and a control . The former gave a smoother , more defined appearance and a more hydrated feel , while retaining the bright colour .
Another rinse-off formulation tested was a 99.25 % natural nourishing
Trade Name Ingredient ( INCI ) %( w / w )
Deionized Water Water 87.3
Jaguar S Cyamopsis Tetragonoloba ( Guar ) Gum 0.5
Cetearyl Alcohol Cetearyl Alcohol 5.0
AminoSensyl Ultra MB
Cetearyl Alcohol ( and ) Brassicyl Valinate Esylate 4.0
LexFeel N350 MB Diheptyl Succinate ( and ) Capryloyl Glycerin Sebacic Acid Copolymer 2.0
Spectrastat G2 Natural MB
Natural Milk and Honey Fragrance
Caprylhydroxamic Acid ( and ) Glyceryl Caprylate ( and ) Glycerin 1.0
Fragrance 0.2
Figure 3 – Natural hydrating conditioner formulation
hair mask with a much thicker , whipped and buttery texture . This incorporated 12.0 % AminoSensyl Ultra MB , 2.0 % Spectrastat PHL * ( INCI : Caprylhydroxamic Acid ( and ) 1,2-Hexanediol ( and ) Propanediol ) and Kerazyne MB * ( INCI : Polyester-11 ), a biodegradable polymer to boost conditioning , with almond oil , meadowfoam seed oil , vitamin E , provitamin B5 and glycerin in deionised water . The mask spreads smoothly and leaves hair feeling soft and moisturised .
Finally , Inolex developed a cushion pomade formulation for hair styling . Pomades tend to be waxy , structured products but they took a different approach that was made possible by having a conditioning agent that is safe to leave on the scalp because it is non-irritant and non-toxic .
They were thus able to use 12.5 % AminoSensyl Ultra MB , paired with 5.0 % LexFeel N5 MB * ( INCI : Diheptyl Succinate ( and ) Capryloyl Glycerin / Sebacic Acid Copolymer ), a lower viscosity silicone alternative , and 1.0 % Spectrastat G2 Natural MB , plus cetearyl alcohol , coconut oil and glycerin in deionised water .
The formulation had a good cushioning effect without losing the soft hold of a pomade . All of the formulations gave good curl definitions , with no frizzing and none of the oiliness typical of coconut oilbased formulations . There was also a volume and bounce to the hair , which is not usually obtained with BTAC .
Summary
AminoSensyl Ultra MB is an optimised combination of brassicyl valinate esylate and cetearyl alcohol that is pre-neutralised for easy processing . Its performance is optimised at pH of < 5.0 , the ideal range for hair care benefits . It can be formulated using traditional O / W processing , in either one-pot or two-pot processes .
The solid format is easy to handle and melts at around 75 ° C , like traditional ingredients . Use levels are in the 4-20 % range for rinse-off and leave-on emulsions , depending on the texture and viscosity desired . It can also be used at 20-90 % in solid formats for conditioner bars , depending on the claims involved . ●
* - AminoSensyl Ultra MB and all the other marked products are registered trademarks of Inolex , Inc .
J j
Dr Lisa Gandolfi
VICE-PRESIDENT OF MARKETING
INOLEX , INC . lisa . gandolfi @ inolex . com www . inolex . com
52 SPECIALITY CHEMICALS MAGAZINE ESTABLISHED 1981