Speciality Chemicals Magazine SEP / OCT 2023 | Page 51

COSMETICS & PERSONAL CARE involves six key checkpoints . The first is the raw materials , which are 100 % biobased , as discussed above . The brassica is also non- GMO and grown without the use of herbicides .

The next stage is manufacturing . In the manufacture of AminoSensyl Ultra MB , an efficient , solvent-free process is used , whose only byproduct is water . The product is 100 % active and non-aqueous , so no extra energy is spent to ship water around the world . In addition , the optimised combination of raw materials makes the product easy to formulate with and can help reduce the number of ingredients users need to keep in their inventory or their supply chain .

Inolex also checks sustainability criteria after the products leave their door . The lamellar liquid crystals make it easy to manufacture and adjust for viscosity . This product also eliminates the need for nonbiodegradable thickeners .

Finally , AminoSensyl Ultra MB is non-irritating to the skin and eyes , very efficient at conditioning and emulsification , and does not overuse renewable resources . At end of life , it is non-toxic to fish , algae and invertebrates , as well as readily biodegradable . BTAC , by contrast , is irritating , aquatically toxic and petrochemically derived .

Equivalent conditioning performance to BTAC is perhaps the key advance AminoSensyl Ultra MB offers over its predecessors in the Inolex amino lipid hair care portfolio when it comes to intense conditioning . In wet comb testing , it achieved an 89.9 % reduction from control against 82.6 % and 60 % respectively for AminoSensyl HC ( INCI : ( Brassica Alcohol ( and ) and Brassicyl Valinate Esylate ) and Emulsense HC * ( Brassica Alcohol ( and ) and Brassicyl Isoleucinate Esylate )).

Test results

AminoSensyl Ultra MB was also tested and compared to BTAC and an untreated control for its ability to condition damaged hair . Both cationic ingredients were used at 2 % active cationic into waterbased formulations adjusted to pH 4-4.5 . In wet comb testing , AminoSensyl Ultra MB achieved a 13.1 gf maximum comb force against 10.4 gf for BTAC and 129.6 gf for the control . In the dry comb test , these figures were 37.1 , 31.0 and 126.4 gf respectively .

Similar figures were achieved in terms of wet comb and dry comb force ( with and without 2.5 % dimethicone , which is often added to formulations to enhance their sensory profile ) on European , Chinese and curly , multi-ethnic hair alike .

In the latter case , there was a delta between its performance and that of BTAC when it came to dry combing . These results overall show that AminoSensyl Ultra MB offers equivalent conditioning to BTAC , because the differences are probably imperceptible to consumers .

AminoSensyl Ultra MB also offers 32 % and 68 % increases in hair strength in Chinese and European hair respectively , as measured by the anti-breakage test in a rinse-off conditioner . Again , this is equivalent to BTAC , as was also the case in the anti-static test , which measures charge to the hair surface , demonstrating that the cationic active was deposited onto damaged hair as well .

With regards to sensory evaluations , the marks , given by an internal panel with multiple hair types , for ease of rinse , slip feel , softness and

Wet Hair Sensory Evaluation

Figure 2 - Consumer-accepted sensory profiles for AminoSensyl Ultra MB & BTAC : Wet ( a ) & dry ( b ) hair

SEP / OCT 2023 SPECCHEMONLINE . COM

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