COSMETICS & PERSONAL CARE
precision allows formulators to design targeted solutions with greater specificity than many traditional actives while simultaneously offering brands a compelling opportunity to communicate sciencebacked efficacy.
Two commercially established examples that demonstrate how peptide design can influence the breadth of peptide-driven performance are Matrixyl * 3000 and Matrixyl Synthe’ 6.
Matrixyl 3000 is a synergistic combination of palmitoyl tripeptide-1 and palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, designed to activate pathways associated with homeostatic repair and ECM reconstruction. In skin cells, it boosts the synthesis of collagen, modulates inflammatory markers and stimulates gene expression related to wound healing. As a result, Matrixyl 3000 presents a highly effective,‘ multipathway’ solution to help address the visible signs of chronological and photoageing( Figure 2).
In contrast, Matrixyl Synthe’ 6 takes a more targeted approach. Built around a single peptide, palmitoyl tripeptide-38, it stimulates the synthesis of six key ECM components including collagen Types I, III and IV, fibronectin, laminin-5 and hyaluronic acid. Through direct action on these structural pathways, Matrixyl Synthe’ 6 has been shown to reduce wrinkle depth by up to 15 % for crow’ s feet and 62 % for forehead wrinkles compared to a placebo.
Beyond Matrixyl 3000 and Matrixyl Synthe’ 6, the wider peptide category includes molecules that can support elastin synthesis to combat skin sagging, target fatigue-related stress pathways or even rebalance the skin microbiome. The breadth of the potential biological impact that peptides have makes them ideal partners to barrier-focussed ingredients, such as ceramides, offering the deeper, holistic structural repair that consumers increasingly expect as part of a high performance, resilience-building routine.
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Strengthening trust in sun protection
Whilst peptides play an increasingly important role in repairing the visible and underlying signs of skin damage, consumers recognise that prevention can be much easier – and more effective – than cure. With enhanced awareness that the most effective approach to long-term skin health is to minimise damage in the first place, the demand for dependable, real-world sun protection has never been higher. However, following several high-profile SPF controversies, consumers’ trust in sun protection is more fragile than ever.
Advanced film-formers play a crucial role in bridging the gap between laboratory SPF values and in-use performance. Technologies such as Crodabond * CSN form uniform, flexible films on the skin, improving sunscreen spreadability and ensuring even distribution of UV filters. This enhances consistency of protection whilst supporting desirable sensory aesthetics.
As shown in Figure 3, Crodabond CSN significantly enhances the efficacy of both organic and inorganic UV filters, increasing SPF by up to 111 %. By boosting protection across the UV spectrum and enabling lower UV filter loadings, it provides formulators with a flexible, cost-effective route to high SPF formulations without compromising performance or aesthetics.
With the prevention of skin damage paramount and scrutiny of
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Figure 3- In vitro SPF testing of Crodabond CSN in sunscreen formulations containing different UV filters
SPF claims more intense than ever, technologies like Crodabond CSN allow brands to deliver credible, durable and confidence-building sun care, completing the formulation architecture of protection, repair and prevention.
Conclusion
The next chapter of skin care is being shaped at the intersection of consumer intent and chemical innovation. Ceramides rebuild and stabilise the barrier that underpins skin comfort and defence. Peptides deliver targeted, biologically meaningful repair and renewal. Advanced film formers ensure that UV protection performs not just in the lab, but in life.
For brands, this trio provides a coherent framework for formulations that strengthen, repair and prevent skin damage, meeting rising expectations for efficacy, trust and long-term skin health. In a market defined by informed, performance-seeking consumers, success will belong to those who can turn robust science into reliable, repeatable results. ●
*- The author would like to acknowledge the help of Pascale Rossi, head of marketing – actives, and Pascaline Criton, senior marketing lead – communications
**- SphingoCare, Matrixyl and Crodabond are all trademarks of Croda
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Hannah Critchley
HEAD OF MARKETING – SKIN CARE
CRODA EUROPE LTD. hannah. critchley @ croda. com www. crodabeauty. com
50 SPECIALITY CHEMICALS MAGAZINE ESTABLISHED 1981