COSMETICS & PERSONAL CARE
T = 0
T = 1
T = 2
Figure 2 – Incorporation of Matrixyl 3000 in skin care formulations to help address the visible signs of chronological and photoageing
Note: T = 0, T = 1 month, T = 2 months
As shown in Figure 1, ceramides are composed of a long chain sphingoid backbone, such as sphingosine, phytosphingosine, 6-hydroxy sphingosine or sphinganine, amide-linked to a fatty acid chain. Variations in chain length, saturation and the presence of additional functional groups can all contribute to differences in lamellar organisation, barrier cohesion and moisturisation performance.
Croda Beauty’ s SphingoCare * range has been developed around this detailed understanding of ceramide structure-function relationships. Drawing on the company’ s expertise in skin science, biofermentation and precision chemistry, the portfolio is designed to address the skin’ s key ceramide types to enable a truly biomimetic approach to barrier replenishment:
• Ceramide NP, a key scaffold ceramide that supports lamellar structure and promotes ceramide synthase expression. DS-Ceramide Y3S is derived from stearic acid and proven to moisturise and protect the skin, even in diverse climactic conditions.
• DS-Ceramide AP is a ceramide derived from an α-hydroxy fatty acid with the ability to work synergistically with Ceramide NP to lock in moisture and improve skin barrier function
• DS-Ceramide EOP is an epidermis esterified-ω-hydroxy fatty acid based ceramide that anchors to corneocytes and plays an indispensable role in barrier integrity
• DS-Phytosphingosine is skinidentical to the most prominent base in the stratum corneum, proven to modulate inflammation and microbiota while promoting skin moisturisation
• DS-TAPS is an acetylated precursor of phytosphingosine that promotes the skin’ s own ceramide synthesis and is clinically proven to reduce under eye circles with skin brightening benefits
Ceramides have transitioned from specialist dermatology into everyday skin care – and consumer interest shows no sign of abating. The SphingoCare range enables formulators to replenish the full spectrum of lipids required for robust, biomimetic barrier restoration, supporting both immediate comfort and long-term resilience.
Peptides for targeted repair & renewal
Where ceramides deliver structural reinforcement for barrier support, peptides address the deeper layers of the skin, activating biological pathways involved in structural repair, collagen synthesis and extracellular matrix( ECM) regeneration. As consumers become more fluent in the language of skin biology, they increasingly understand that these precise, small molecules play a strategic role in visible renewal and long-term skin health.
Peptide structure determines function. Specific sequences can trigger defined, biomimetic signalling pathways associated with macromolecule synthesis, inflammatory regulation or rebuilding the ECM. This level of biological
MAR / APR 2026 SPECCHEMONLINE. COM
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