John Hibbs of Argus Consulting highlights an example where study of natural defences in plants have identified useful substances and processes to be applied in the cosmetics sector
COSMETICS & PERSONAL CARE
Learning from nature : Application of 2,3-butanediol in cosmetics
John Hibbs of Argus Consulting highlights an example where study of natural defences in plants have identified useful substances and processes to be applied in the cosmetics sector
Why do some plants survive drought better than others ? How do plants resist disease ? Researchers at South Korea ’ s GS Caltex examined these questions .
Plants with higher resistance were found to contain raised levels of 2,3-butanediol ( 2,3-BD ), which acts to both retain moisture and resist microbial attack . The team were also able to identify specific microorganisms that produced 2,3-BD in the resistant plants .
2,3-BD is a naturally occurring compound that is found in a wide range of plants and animals , as an intermediate step in the metabolism of sugars . This metabolic pathway has been studied extensively , giving an excellent understanding of the safety profile of the substance . 1
Present in many fermented products , 2,3-BD is believed to contribute to the flavour profiles of , for example , soy sauce and wine . 2 Its presence can also contribute to the resistance of the host plant to drought , because it is a natural humectant , and also to disease , since it has antimicrobial properties . 3
Due to these positive benefits , coupled with very low toxicity and high naturality , 2,3-BD is therefore of interest as an ingredient for cosmetic formulations . It has applications as a natural moisturising agent , with a unique sensorial profile , high skin compatibility , solvent and dispersant properties , and the potential to boost the efficacy of preservation systems . The substance also shows potential
110
::R 0 100
(I) a:
70 60
Relative TEWL
0 2 3 4 5 Time / hours
-2,3BD -1,3BD -1,3PD
Figure 1 - Skin hydration ( a ) & relative TEWL ( b ) of 2,3-BD & other formulations
as a natural solvent for the extraction of phytoactives .
Commercially , 2,3-BD can be obtained from fermentation of a prepared biomass , often based on high-sugar containing plants , such as cassava root or sugar cane . Since the fermentation process uses natural organisms , the resulting product can still be regarded as natural according to industry labelling schemes . The isolation and purification steps are physical , avoiding the use of hazardous materials , and further ensuring the purity and safety of the substance .
Key characteristics
GS Caltex produces commercial 2,3- BD under the name GreenDiol via a patented fermentation process , using the natural organism isolated from their work on drought resistance . It is a low viscosity (< 130 mPas at 25 ° C ),
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