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Figure 1 – How Koffee ’ Up influences keratinocyte migration Figure 2 – Keratotinocyte migration with Koffee ’ Up at 0.1 % & 0.2 %

‣ which focuses on upcycling spent coffee grounds and transforming them into active and functional ingredients for cosmetics . Consumers are already well informed about this new mode of sustainable consumption . According to our internal CMI study , 38 % of consumers worldwide have already used cosmetic products containing recycled or upcycled ingredients . The same study shows that 59 % of 18-34 year olds know that there is a difference between these two concepts , without being able to say which is which . Although upcycling is related to recycling , giving the materials used new life and added value , recycling reduces the value of the material during an energyconsuming transformation process . Recycling has been integrated into our vocabulary for decades . Thus , 34 % of the same 18-34 yearolds see recycled ingredients as their favourites , followed closely by upcycled ingredients ( 23 %). Upcycling is a more recent concept in the field of cosmetics , so this predicts a very bright future for such ingredients . Even though upcycled ingredients are pretty new in the cosmetic field , Givaudan Active Beauty has expertise in them , since it has a catalogue of nine ingredients from upcycling . These include Koffee ’ Up ^* , a new elixir of sustainable beauty , made from 100 % upcycled Arabica spent coffee grounds . More famous for its flavour properties , coffee oil is the perfect ally for the skin too . Koffee ’ Up is a combination of fatty acids with high levels of palmitic ( saturated ) and linoleic ( unsaturated ) acids . This balance helps the oil to quickly penetrate the skin layers . Koffee ’ Up supports the skin in its hydration role and strengthens the skin barrier against external aggression . It is rich in tocopherols , which are natural antioxidants .

Active oil for skin repair

The impact of Koffee ’ Up on keratinocyte migration using the skin repair method has been analysed ( Figure 1 ). Keratinocyte cells ( HaCat ) were grown in a modified culture medium without the positive control ( FBS ), at 37 º C in a humidified atmosphere with 5 % CO ₂

. Wound images were taken every three hours for 48 hours and the data analysed by the integrated metric , relative wound density . The results showed that 0.2 % Koffee ’ Up demonstrated an activation of cell migration that reached 100 % of wound confluence after 48 hours ( Figure 2 ). The active coffee oil induced an increase of cell migration as observed by the reduction of wound confluence , demonstrating skin repair properties ( Figure 3 ). The ability of Koffee ’ Up to activate the Nrf2 pathway , which is well known to be responsible for the antioxidant cellular response , has also been studied . A keratinocyte cell line containing the luciferase reporter gene under the control of the ARE promoter were used as a model . These keratinocytes express luciferase when Nrf2 is activated , enabling us to detect ingredients triggering this detoxification / antioxidant pathway . The cells were treated in a complete culture medium ( DMEM ) containing 10 % FBS in a CO ₂ incubator at 37 º C . To induce Nrf2 activation , the cells were treated for six hours , directly diluted in culture medium . As a positive reference , they were treated with the activator of the Nrf2 pathway ( TBHQ ) at 20 μM . Data were normalised according to an untreated control at 1 ( Figure 4 ). Using this model based on overexpression of reporter Nrf2 gene coupled to luciferase detection , we were able to correlate a level of Nrf2 activation to a measurement of luciferase activity in relative light units . We observed that the cells incubated with tert-butyl-hydroquinone ( TBHP ) induced a drastic increase of luciferase

28 SPECIALITY CHEMICALS MAGAZINE ESTABLISHED 1981