Gourmet Pretzels
Connecticut-style lobster roll with warm garlic butter and a toasted brioche bun .
Opens at 12 noon – 7 days a week
334 Westminster St . Providence 401-490-0300
themaltedbarley . com
quinoa and cool tzatziki , while scallops are paired with chilled cauliflower puree and smoky chorizo ($ 34 ). The equation is similar : mild fish punctuated by aggressive herbs — compelling but not too far off the familiar course . Not surprisingly , steaks ($ 34 ) make an appearance for the masses as do sticky ribs ($ 17 ) for those who double down on heat . Tack on some skewers of chicken satay in rum-laced peanut sauce ($ 16 ) and you ’ ll come to realize that the Reef is handling an upscale barbecue for 200 people , spread across a dining room and two patios .
But the restaurant is not out to re-envision al fresco dining . In fact , the “ adult mac and cheese ” ($ 18 ) is a testament to their commitment to revisiting memories of years past . Even at 80 degrees , diners hover over small steaming cauldrons of molten cheese that pulls out in theatrical strings . Reactions lean toward the overdramatic , as if a dish that fell out of your childhood couldn ’ t possibly live in the same realm as the exalted view . But it ’ s all an exercise in equally distributed privilege , and the prismatic horizon belongs to everyone who manages to get a table .
The Reef has struggled with the same staffing predicament of most restaurants post-pandemic , but the setting sun is an intoxicant that keeps most complaints at bay . Even guests waiting for a check stare absent-mindedly at the mural unfolding in the distance . “ Remind me to bring my kids next time ,” says an exuberant mom on a night off . “ It ’ s too beautiful for anyone to notice them running around .”
As the hours wear on into nightfall , the restaurant does assume the air of an outdoor wedding winding down . Staff takes on a second shift , shuffling tables to accommodate larger groups in search of a nightcap . Those still seated gravitate toward dessert , which doesn ’ t aspire to anything other than old school sweets to close out the evening . They do just as much to reassure the crowd that the Reef is trying to recreate a stellar memory and not introduce a new experience . There ’ s a reason that Rhode Island takes pride in its coastline — it ’ s a prized possession that gets better with each Adirondack chair , each lobster roll and each spiked lemonade served at twilight . If you ’ re lucky enough to get a seat on a clear night , grab it for as long as you can . Summer is finite and these are hours that we store away to extricate and embrace long after the warm weather has left us . �
Big kid mac and cheese with elbow pasta , four cheese blend , cream , garlic and bread crumbs .
90 RHODE ISLAND MONTHLY l SEPTEMBER 2021