T here are a handful of deeply ingrained rituals to mark the passage of time . Among those sacraments , nothing heralds the end of summer more sentimentally than sitting waterside to watch the sunset , cocktail in hand . There are a few spots that manifest serenity — the sound of the ocean lapping at the shore — but Howard Wharf is all about the bustle . The Reef monopolizes the dock , with room for people who have front row seats to take in both a dramatic skyline and a bevy of extravagant boats in for the evening . Potted palm trees mark the edges of the patio as onlookers to the Earth ’ s rotation sit entranced , tequila on standby .
Nights at the Reef begin like a Caribbean vacation : sun is high in the sky , toddlers subdued with sippy cups and everyone shows up in shorts or casual kaftans . The staff has walked right out from a “ Below Deck ” episode , wearing khaki shortshorts and navy polo shirts , embroidered with liquor logos on the sleeve . Everyone is young and radiantly sun-kissed , hair pulled back as a sign to someone that they ’ re on duty . This is a party for all ages and , while the seasonally changing menu is leaning toward an international approach , the mood is entirely American . Hedonism filters through in myriad ways but “ five o ’ clock somewhere ” is the unspoken mantra , with tequila coolers and frozen mudslides parading out in technicolor and chocolate swirls ($ 12 ). So pronounced is the philosophy that , when one seemingly
health-conscious woman asks what drinks are available without alcohol , a stumped server stares skyward before saying , “ I think we ’ ve got one non-alcoholic beer .” ( Restraint is not a familiar refrain .)
Eventually , people get around to eating and the Reef is intent on diners losing all sense of place and time . Flags from around the world hang at the front door and the kitchen draws from a variety of inspirations — Italy , Greece , Japan — in an effort to prove that deck-dwelling is a universal pastime . Some dishes focus on light summer fare ( chilled shellfish with cocktail sauce or Old Bay mayo ) but the goal is to recreate a day at the beach and , accordingly , many small plates come out of the fryer with a mission to manifest summer in its primary form . Chickpea fries ($ 14 ) and empanadas ($ 14 ), served with dipping sauce , bear more than a passing resemblance to fries from the snack shack . Plates of crunchy calamari , New England style ($ 16 ) or in tamari vinaigrette , suddenly taste less imported and more like the sun beating down on your face on a tropical island far from social media and everything it stands for . True , you ’ re in the center of Newport ; but this is a getaway as long as you keep your back to Thames Street .
Entrees are more ambitious in their approach , but the kitchen never veers too far from a clambake or a seafood boil . Lobster sandwiches ($ 28 ) are served cold or hot and drenched in butter , the embodiment of summer ’ s best . Salmon is seared in Moroccan spices ($ 30 ), sitting on top of
THE REEF
10 Howard Wharf , Newport , 324-5852 , thereefnewport . com .
Open Wed .– Sun . for lunch , Tues .– Sun . for dinner . Wheelchair accessible . Lot parking .
CUISINE An elevated day at the beach .
CAPACITY About 300 indoors , 300 outdoors .
VIBE Surfer boy meets Lilly Pulitzer .
PRICES Appetizers $ 9 –$ 18 ; entrees $ 13 –$ 38 ; dessert $ 12 .
KAREN ’ S PICKS Rhody basics : calamari , lobster roll , scallops , cocktails and refills .
RHODE ISLAND MONTHLY l SEPTEMBER 2021 89