W
hile buzzwords such as farm-totable, sustainability and locavore
are relatively new, the concepts
surrounding them are centuries
old. Using the food products that were closest
to home used to be the only option for most
people, who may have never even considered
the plethora of perks for their own health, and
the health of their communities.
The debate over food—where we get it, how
it’s grown, what chemicals are used during the
process and how it’s labeled on our grocery
store shelves—has become an increasingly hot
topic in recent years. Documentary films such
as “Super Size Me” (2004), “Food, Inc.” (2008),
“Forks Over Knives” (2011) and “GMO OMG”
(2013) have helped heighten consumer awareness of serious issues with the fast food business and the industrialization of agriculture.
In reaction to an increasingly globalized
agricultural industry, chefs and consumers are
turning toward the simplicity of the slow food
approach and fresh meals that are representative of the surrounding land and culture. As
a result, those who embrace all things local
are reaping the benefits, which include foods
that are better in their quality, environmental
friendliness and, of course, taste.
Conscious Consumption
CARLO PETRINI PHOTO COURTESY OF STATE OF THE NET
Built around products that are good for you,
cleanly produced and fairly bought, Slow Food
International is just one organization that represents the global movement toward a more
Slow Food advocate Carlo Petrini speaking on the importance of farm-to-table cuisine
thoughtful way of eating. The nearly 30-yearold grassroots campaign began when Carlo
Petrini led a protest against a location of a
fast food restaurant opening near the Spanish
Steps in Rome. Wanting to reverse society’s
increasing reliance on fast food, the Italian
activist’s emphasis on farm-to-table fare was
rooted in his desire to preserve the historic
connection between agriculture and gastronomy. The crusade has since attracted a legion
of devotees, with more than 100,000 members
Evan James harvests turnips from the gardens at Broadfield, A Sea Island Sporting Club and Lodge.
in 160 countries all around the world.
The movement that encourages sourcing
foods produced by local farmers has gone
beyond just the members of Slow Food, however. “Locavores” have identified themselves
as a new category of foodies across the nation.
Despite differences in the number of miles
that quantify local, experts agree that it’s
important to take into account a product’s
origins. Seattle’s Café Flora, open since 1991,
was an early herald of the local and organic
food message. The eatery continues to source
sustainable produce from Washington state
and has been named the area’s best vegetarian
restaurant by multiple publications. Showing
that omnivores can eat local, too, Cochon in
New Orleans is dedicated to locally sourcing
pork for dishes that highlight the city’s famous
Cajun flavors.
Steven Satterfield—a 2014 James Beard
finalist for Best Chef in the Southeast—is an
outspoken proponent of the slow food movement. He asserts that buying locally grown
ingredients has demonstrated benefits for
both consumers and their community. As the
executive chef and co-owner of Miller Union,
an acclaimed Atlanta restaurant, he practices
what he preaches.
“First off,” he lists, “the food did not have
to travel miles and miles to get to us. This
means it’s fresher, tastes better and has more
living nutrients. You can taste the difference.
Secondly, when we support growers in our
region, we boost the local economy. We also
raise awareness of our region’s bounty and celebrate ingredients with our food heritage. The
consumer and the producer both benefit from
SPRING/SUMMER 2015 | SEA ISL AND LIFE 33
SI5_Local-e_v2-e_v4-e.indd 33
3/20/15 4:41 PM