TRAVELSPECIAL
The unyielding whitespot pufferfish
Squarespot anthias
a variety of international hand gestures that amounted to pretty much the same meaning .
The dive concluded with a bracing current ride along a channel leading back into the lagoon , the scoured rock rushing below us . I stayed close to Sophie and our guide , the scenery flying by at what seemed like sprinting pace . Of course , current is all relative if you ’ re moving with it , so when we reached the surface it all seemed calm . Eventually we hit a turbulent eddy and got stuck in a swirling mass of palm tree branches and coconuts – what a ride !
Before I wind up this report , I should emphasize the advantages of having a National Diving Officer join you on a trip . By the end of the trip , half our divers had been gently coaxed into reducing their weightbelt lead , and of course Sophie was on hand to advise our hydroid-injured diver . As well as being excellent company , Sophie
Broadclub cuttlefish knows when someone needs help , and she is always the first to offer it .
We had a day trip to the Sangalaki area in the hope of seeing some manta rays , but the viz was too low and the current too high , so our group decided to end the dive early . We were also supposed to visit a brackish lake supposedly supporting stingless jellyfish , but the pontoon was under repair and there was talk of the jellyfish having died off . We felt the resort should have known about these factors before we set off .
Our group was divided when it came to the overall quality of the diving , with half rating it very highly and the others saying it was at times underwhelming . For my part , I thought the reefs were impressive , though sometimes lacking in fish . Tellingly , those who chose to brave the current and return to Big Fish Country had the best time . On this trip , fortune favoured the bold . �
Essentials
GETTING THERE : The journey is long and complex . Fly to Surabaya , Indonesia , via Singapore then overnight . Next is a flight north to Berau in Kalimantan ( Indonesian Borneo ), then a three hour speed boat journey to Nabucco . Pray for calm seas !
RESORTS : Nabucco Island Resort is managed by Eco Divers who also operate two slightly more expensive resorts in Derawan – Virgin Cocoa , Nunukan Island and Spice Island Resort . Details can be found at nabuccos-resorts-indonesien . com / For details on Samboja Lodge and the orangutan sanctuary , go to sambojalodge . com
WHEN TO GO : Peak season is considered to be from April to October , a warm period with less wind and rain . Diving is possible all year round , but avoid the storms of January . The rainy season in November and December is the best time to see mantas .
TOUR OPERATOR : Dive Worldwide has a variety of packages to the Derawan Archipelago , which can be tailored to your needs . Expect to pay around £ 4,200 for a package similar to the one featured here , including flights , transfers accommodation , diving and the Samboja add-on .
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