Above : A shaft of intense light cuts through the water at Taj Mahal
Left : Woz hovering with a 1,000-yard stare waiting for Lanny ’ s ‘ hand of doom ’
PHOTO : ELAINE WHITE
It ’ s best not to touch these as they are inhabited by scorpion spiders ( shudder ). There are also the most stunning stalactite and stalagmite formations in the entire cavern . The exit back through the cenote features not only a halocline , but a misty layer of hydrogen sulphide , a sight I ’ ll never forget . Maximum depth : 18 metres
Angelita : ‘ Little Angel ’
This is a circular , vertical sinkhole some 65 metres deep . Underworld can provide trimix if you fancy going to the bottom , but you don ’ t need to . The debris from the original cave collapse forms a vast debris cone which rises to within 20m of the surface and contains ancient tree trunks and branches . At 30 metres , a dense halocline and hydrogen sulphate layer makes the trees look like a mistshrouded forest and blocks out all the light below . To descend through this layer is to visit an unseen world of twisted branches and strange , crystalline rock formations on the vertical wall . Good buoyancy control is essential .
Essentials
DIVE CENTRE : Nick and Woz dived with the BSAC centre Underworld Tulum www . underworldtulum . com , which can also provide accommodation . You can email owner / manager Lanny Vogel at lanny @ underworldtulum . com CENOTE VISITS : There is a small entrance fee for most cenotes and some will charge for using cameras . Most have toilets and changing facilities . Some divers use drysuits . I was warm in a 2mm wetsuit . It ’ s worth stating that they are situated in the jungle , with all the heat , humidity and wildlife which that entails . Sun block and insect repellent are prohibited , so cover up and bring biodegradable products with you . Take plenty of water . EATS AND TREATS : You won ’ t get blown out , but you may want a day off and Tulum doesn ’ t disappoint . There are numerous shops , restaurants and bars . The prices are low , the food is delicious , and the locals are very friendly . Vegetarians and vegans are well catered for , even at El Asadero , which served the best steak I have ever eaten . For night life , try Batey ’ s Bar , where flamenco dancing and live salsa music are accompanied by splendid mojitos and eye-watering mescal shots . TOPSIDE ATTRACTIONS : No trip to the Yucatan is complete without a visit to a Mayan site . Tulum itself has impressive ruins overlooking the sea and the world-famous city of Chichen Itza is about 90 minutes ’ drive to the west . We chose to visit the vast complex at Coba as it ’ s only an hour away and you can climb the great pyramid . This site is big enough to justify cycle hire to get around ( or pay an exhausted looking man to peddle your lazy butts around in a rickshaw , as we did ). SEA DIVING : Still want more diving ? The Caribbean is right on your doorstep . Underworld can arrange trips with local dive centres to see whale sharks in early summer , or simply enjoy the beautiful reefs along the coast as far as Cozumel . NICK ’ S VERDICT : As an avowed cold-water diver , I was nevertheless captivated by all that Tulum and the Yucatan has to offer . I will certainly be back for more stunning diving , and perhaps a drop of that mescal too …
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