TRAVEL SPECIAL
Right : Stalactites and stalagmites in The Pit
Obviously , this being us , even that didn ’ t go according to plan . On day two , I found myself with a perpetually flooding mask , an increasingly numb face and a left hand that refused to work . I suspected a stroke but was only slightly more relieved to discover that I had been bitten by a tabano , or Mexican horse fly . My head and arm were badly swollen , and I realised that I couldn ’ t dive in that state , so reluctantly left Woz to it .
Luckily for both of us , we were based at the excellent Underworld dive centre in Tulum . Mexico ’ s only BSAC centre , Underworld is run by Lanny and Claire Vogel . They are both experienced instructors and accomplished cave divers . They are friendly and professional and can accommodate divers of every level . An awkward customer who radically changes plan , like me , didn ’ t ruffle them in the slightest . So , when my head had returned to its normal ( or at least , usual ) shape , I went cavern diving . Caverns are caves in which some daylight is usually visible , but they are not to be taken lightly . Good buoyancy and trim are essential , as is the correct finning technique and a guide who really knows their stuff .
I was joined by Suzanne and Suzie , two ladies from the Midlands who were diving their way around the Caribbean , and by the legendary cave guide , Julia Gugelmeier , whose knowledge and enthusiasm are quite extraordinary , as is her ability to swear like a trooper in several languages . As a gentleman , I was happy to improve her already excellent English in that area . Anyway , this being SCUBA magazine , let ’ s talk about the caverns I visited .
Tulum ’ s caverns
Dos Ojos : ‘ Two Eyes ’
Two cavern routes are accessed from a single cenote which forms part of one of the world ’ s largest cave systems . The Barbie cave is a beautiful cavern , adorned with stunning stalactite formations . Why ‘ Barbie ’? You ’ ll see . Bat cave is similar in character and is so called because of the thousands of large bats which roost in the roof above the entrance pool and occasionally pop down for a drink . Maximum depth , 10 metres .
Akton-Ha : ‘ Car Wash ’
So called as the local taxi drivers used to clean their vehicles here . A large open pool resembling a tropical fish tank leads to more serious cave routes . There is a myriad of the type of small fish which are used in spas to provide pedicures . The fact that they enthusiastically nibbled Woz ’ s face tells you much about his personal grooming regime . Maximum depth is 8 metres .
Kukulkan : ‘ The feathered serpent god ’
It ’ s hard to estimate visibility in the cenotes because it ’ s constrained more by cave size and light power , than by water clarity . All our cavern dives were in very clear water , but in Kukulkan , the water was so clear that it was almost invisible . Huge boulders the size of houses form a convoluted obstacle course as we descended to the halocline level . This is where the fresh cenote water meets the salt water that has leaked in from the nearby Caribbean . It forms a shimmering horizontal layer which can unsettle the unwary diver , not only by making the water blurry , but also by suddenly changing the buoyancy characteristics of the water . Maximum depth : 15 metres .
Chac Mol : ‘ The altar of the rain god ’
Until I find out otherwise , this may be the most beautiful submerged cave on Earth . It simply ticks all the boxes . The sunlight penetration in the cenote is gorgeous and ethereal , but that ’ s just the start . Like many cenotes , Chac Mol boasts magnificent stalactite and stalagmite formations , but in this case , it really goes to town . Columns , curtains , wedding cakes and spires appear almost everywhere . We were lucky enough to joined by a turtle on our dive too .
An experienced guide may give you a glimpse into the air dome . This is a short distance off the main cavern line and should not be attempted without suitable skill and equipment . The dome has a small hole in the roof through which sunlight streams , as well as roots from the jungle above .
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