Royal Mountain Travel Magazine Royal Mountain Travel Magazine Issue 3 | Page 35

STAIRWAY TO HEAVEN: A weekend in Chisapani and the Shivapuri Forest

it was Rs. 500 for a foreigner and for Nepalis Rs. 50. Non-nepalis
must have their passport with them and Park officers were very
strict about that.
The main village on the trail is Mulkharka which spreads uphill
for almost one kilometer. It is a traditional Tamang village with two
storey homes made of stone and mud, often coloured a bright
ochre which make them stand out amongst the terraced crops
and the riot of vegetable plots. In November most homes still had
fences of yellow and orange marigolds. Men and women were
at their seasonal chores – mushroom picking, honey harvesting
from their hives; drying maize cobs under the eaves. Children and
women herded goats along the trail and called dogs to order, and
someone in every household was doing the laundry. At various
places along the trail hazy views of the capital can be seen, and
the hills of Shivapuri had a blue tinge. Mulkharka has a few small
tea shops-cum-cafes serving the usual tasty Nepali favourites –
dal bhat, chilli chicken, momos and so on, plus a few standard
western dishes. And you could smell it before you could see the
tell-tale wisps of smoke – raksi and chang were being brewed in
small sheds.
Leaving Mulkharka, the trail suddenly changes and Shivapuri
comes into its own. The typical vegetation of the park is middle
hill forest from 1,000-1,800 meters with common trees being chir
pine on the southern dry ridges, and alder, Wild Himalayan Cherry
and ring-cupped oak along streams. On the northern slopes it is
more common to find oak, laurel and rhododendron. There are
also myriads of creepers and ferns and, in November, growing in
profusion on mossy banks and moss covered trees, a beautiful tiny
mauve orchid. And although there is no settlement until Chisapani,
it seemed that the forest was eerily silent; not even birdsong. This
could, of course, be due to the laughter and chatter of happy
walkers. The forest is cool, casts dappled light on the path, so
welcome after all the stone stairs, and there are a couple of covered
rest areas built by the Nepal Environment and Tourism Initiative
Foundation where a breather can be taken, and the views enjoyed.
The highest point of the trail is Burlang Bhanjyang La (2,430m).
From there it is a 40 minute, 300 meter descent into Chisapani
which is just a collection of hotels and chalets below the army
post. But, oh, the glorious views of Himalayan Peaks including

Million Dollar Smile. Photo: RMT.

Typical Nepali home on way to Chisapani. Photo: RMT.

Trekkers on route to Chisapani. Photo: RMT.

ROYAL

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